Hello, I'm a new member here, although I've been visiting/reading for some time. Looking for some help with my 99 Range Rover HSE. For no apparent reason it intermittently fails to start (or even turn over) when the ignition key is turned to the on position. It's happended 3 times.
1. First time was at a gas station. I opened the hood and checked/ played with the battery cables for a minute. Went back into the truck, turned the key and it started. I assumed it was a loose battery cable, even though they appeared clean and tight.
2. Second time I was parked at my office. At the end of the day after sitting for about 9-10 hours it failed to start again. I turned key probably 6-8 times. Went back in the office to get assistance with a jump start. When I returned to the vehicle it started no problem without the jump start.
3. Third time was similar to the second but vehicle only sat for about an hour. This time I called a wrecker. Waited about an hour for it to arrive. Truck started just before the wrecker arrived so I drove it to a local Automobile Electrical shop. Since they could not duplicate problem, they suggested that I try to find similiar problem on line so they would have a starting point.
And here I am.
Truck has a new starter in it. I don't believe it is the battery or alternator, although I could be wrong.
Appologize for the length of string, but thought it might help.
Appreciate any help in advance.
BJ

 

We will need a bit more info before we can start to diagnose the problem. When you turn the key does it try to turn over at all? Do you hear a "click" when you turn the key? Is there anything in common with the times that it doesn't work, like was it raining, or really cold? Recent powerwash? Next time it doesn't start check and see if the headlights are bright and if all of the other accessories work. Also, with the key in the ON position, try shifting the truck out of park, did it go?

 

Chris, Thanks for your quick response.
When I turn the key it does NOT try to turn over, if I remember correctly there is a very slight "click", not like you would here from a starter, but very faint. I didn't keep the key turned to the on position for more than 2 or 3 seconds though. All three times seem to have happened randomly although they didn't happen prior to it becoming pretty cold here in NC (coincidence?). Have not powerwashed the truck. All the accessories (interior lights, radio, seatbelt chime, dash lights) worked but the headlights did dim down to almost nothing when the key was turned. During the last incident I did put the transmission in neutral to see if it would start from there, so it does shift out of park. I think that there might be a slow electrical drain somewhere as that is what the technician at Auto Zone told me about 3 months ago when I replaced the battery. The last time it was serviced by Land Rover (3-4 months ago) I was told that a fault code indicated a defective/ malfunctioning Torque Converter Plate(??). Not sure if it's relevant.
Thanks Again!
BJ

 

Sounds to me like bad connection either at the battery or the starter. Could be a loose connection or corrosion where the connector is crimped on to the wire. I would pull it in the garage and wiggle the cables under the hood and try to get it to not start. You should be able to duplicate the problem. If you can, then it should be pretty easy to fix. Hope that helps.

 

I am pretty sure that a torque converter plate has nothing to do with it and I am not even sure what the heck that is, and I have done a couple transmissions before.

I am more willing to bet even though the starter is new that is where the problem is. The faint click you hear should be the starter relay, if the starter does not read that signal then it will not start. The motors on a starter can be affected by cold or hot weather so that could be the culprit that is just making the issue show up. Depending on where you got the starter I would just go get a replacement one and see what happens. If it has a warranty then it should not cost you anything but the 30 minutes it takes to replace it.

As a side note, it could be a bad connection on the starter wiring itself that is causing this as well so double check those.

 

I have had a similar issue with mine. It only happens about once a month and will always kick over if I go to the off position and then try to start it, otherwise nothing. I have not found the cause of the problem, because it would be mad chasing a problem that only occurs once a month . You will need to run more diagnostics on it and see if a current is being sent to the starter when the key is turned. If that is not the case, you need to go to the next step such as looking into replacing a relay. If that does not fix it, make sure the relay is getting a signal, and then make sure the becm is sending it. Its really just a process of elimination. BTW, is your starter an OEM or aftermarket?

 

Outside of a loose battery terminal, then I would suspect a XYZ switch.

you can jump the starter to see if runs.

 

Chris, Wilson, Rob, and Scott,
Thanks for the help. I think I'm going to start with the starter. The one I put in there about 10-12 months ago was an aftermarket. Just trying to save a little money. I think I paid about $100 for it which is about half of what Atlantic British wanted at the time. Since that time I've replaced the Cylinder Heads, Water Pump, Both Rear EAS Bags, Bonnet Release Latch and cable, Rear Wiper Pump, cubby box piston, numerous dash bulbs, 1 of the front fog lights, and 1 of the mufflers. It might sound like complaining, but I love this truck. I might have to buy a hoopty for regular transportation so I can keep my RR running. The Torque Converter Plate I referred to earlier is actually a "Flex Plate Flywheel to Torque Converter" which Atlantic British sells for about $45.00. Anybody have any idea what is involved in replacing that?? Probably more than I'm capable of, but have to ask. One last thing . . . The LED on my Climate Control Display is slowly beginning to disappear. Do I have to replace the whole unit?
Thanks Again!!
BJ

 

Well, replacing it will either involve pulling the motor or transmission. Both of which I have done. Once they are off then it takes a decent breaker bar or torque wrench to get it off. I am tyring to think of what is causing it to throw a code. I can only think of it being the tone ring that is on the plate, if one of the stubs is bent then it may cause some issue. You can check them by removing the inspection plate or removing the CPS to see them. I have one if you need it but I am more willing to bet it is a sensor sending a wierd signal somewhere.

 

diagnose the damn thing before throwing parts at it. Do you really want to waste time with another shotgun before getting stuck someplace.

using a voltmeter you might be able to monitor the xyz switch from the transmission. But if it wont start jump the relay.

or if its really cold, pour cold water on the starter to see if it will start.