OK, I went out today and the rear drivers side is lower than all the other three. the rear passenger side is low, but no where near like the drivers side is and it looks like the front didn't lower hardly at all. So im guessing that leak has got to be somewhere in the rear drivers side.

Any thoughts?
Thank so much for all you guys help so far

-B

 

Sounds as though you are getting closer to sorting this out. First off, the bag might be leaking. Give it a squirt of the soapy stuff at ALL suspension levels. Sometimes a crack or split in a bag can be masked when the bellows roll over themselves at differing heights. Next, check the line connection to the bellows. You will simply raise the car to "wade" height and between the body of the car and the rear wheel arch protector you should be able to see where the line connects to the bags on both sides.
If that proves ok, go under the hood to the valve block and check your line connectors. They should be marked as to which line goes to its matching bag. There have also been some reports of the rear lines getting chaffed so also check and listen carefully all along the length of the lines. Of course, also carefully check the solonoids for leaks. It doesn't take much of a leak at all to cause the problem you are experiencing.
Good luck and keep us posted.

Chris.

 

Thanks RR,

Can you tell me where the valve block is. Ive sprayed the compressor block and it showed no signs of leakage. Im suppose to pick up my battery sometime this week, so as soon as I get it in, Ill do everything you said. Ill also look for the markings, but I dont recall seeing anything. and last but not least, where are the solenoids. Ive downloaded the RAVE, but cant find any info on the EAS

Thanks again for all you guys help

-B

 

The solenoids are the square items right next to the compressor. I have a leaky rear bag on the passenger side, my Arnott bags just came in this last week. I have a small crack in the bag when at freeway height. When at normal or High height it does not leak, does not make much sense but that is the way it is.

When you get your battery keep looking so you know what it really is.

 

What Rob said, the solonoids will be under the plastic cover on the D/S of the engine bay next to the inner fender. It seems to me that the reason the bags develop cracks in the regular area of their travel is simply due to the fact that they spend most of their life in that position whereby they flex the most and thus cause the cracking and splitting at those points. When the EAS adjusts itself whilst parked for any length of time, the cracks fold over themselves and restrict the leaks to a minimum, this in turn leaves you with a level looking vehicle which starts to leak when you next start her up and ergo, the additional strain on the compressor etc leads to the hard fault.

 

Hey guys,

Ok, that I understand, but what i dont understand is that when I did reset the hard faults, and got the RR back to the proper height. I did not drive it, it stayed park. and it stayed risen for about 4 days. Now the confusing part is, out of those 4 days, it stayed at the proper height until the last day, the next morning I go to check it out and its lowered back down. If it was a leak, wouldn't it be leaking the entire time, since the car isn't moving, thus it should be lowering a little each day, instead of all at once like that. This is whats really confusing me.

Thanks guys

-B

 

Different symptoms are caused by different causes Bill. I've had situations where the front of the car sat right down but the rear was normal (ride height sensor). Right front dipping (leak at supply pipe to airbag). There are all manner of oddities that can occur. The BECM wakes up periodically and adjusts the car to the lowest point, if you get to the car before the self levelling has occured you will see the low point of the system but if it has already adjusted itself you might not see anything abnormal. How fast does your car rise to normal height after it has dropped ? On my particular vehicle, I get no drop over a couple of days (light is on for normal height immediately I start her) but occasionally after a few days of inactivity the compressor kicks in for a few seconds to top off the system. Obviously, I have a very small leak somewhere but nothing to worry about at this time. Try running the car for ten or so minutes with the driver door open, this should fill the air tank completely and give you maximum reserve air.

Chris.

 

ok that makes sense now.When i do turn it on, it rises right up. That ride height sensor sounds like what mine is doing. Im going to do a thorough inspection of the bags and lines and see if I can find anything, if not then I guess it does have to be one of those sensors

Thanks RR

 

If you have a decently bad leak you can fill the tank with the door open, then while running the truck lay inder the back or front (I say back since that is where you think the problem is) and listen while the vehicle raises once the door is shut. This may give you a clue to where the issue may be. Mine when it raises from complete access mode I can hear very clearly the leak until the bag passes the opening then it goes away and will stay inflated just fine for days, then it may drop for no apparent reason.

Good Luck with your findings.

 

this story might build your confidence: my lwb RRC w/air was in storage and I tried to start it on dead battery. the low amp condition switched the computer to fail mode and it was on blocks.

got a schematic, pulled the pigtail and manually jumped pins to (1) turn on compressor (2) open and close solenoids (air in and out) (3) direct air to different springs. during the process I accidently jumped to pins wrong and blew a fuse somewhere. I liked being able to put the rover at High setting and drive around without it going down every day. after 2 months in storage it would drop on the front springs so I got replacement used/good springs. went to change it and found my 60K bladders were in better shape. drove it like this for 1.5 years.

got the nerve up, took to dealer to pay a reset fee and see if a code was there. the oldest guy in the shop could barely remember how to work on it but he PERSONALLY had the tools (key term there), I worked with him in the shop for 3 hours and we found two $2 blown fuses and after changing them he cleared the fail code. surprise: the suspension went up and it works great now a year later. less than a $200 repair for computer hookup and his time. The only thing the isn't like before the fault is that the lights on the dash don't work the same. I'm not too picky -- if it still works according to specs and lights up all 3 buttons -- who cares... I love the air suspension.

So - I never got the honor of swapping airsprings but learned to ask more questions when buying somebody's used stuff. It was $75 for 4 from a guy who " sold his old rover" and had leftover spares. Look on ebay -- you might find the used part there. Get the rover part number and search google with it. I found a $300+ ignition switch for >$60 that way... Good luck