Can you guys tell me how to upload a video so you can hear the truck running, I also went out to try and start it and it started, drove around the block let it idle for 15 minutes, after putting red antifreeze in and then I got to McDonalds a 5 minute drive and it cut off in the parking lot, I asked God to let it start and get me back home and he did..

 

Well, Murphy's Law comes in a multi-volume set. Whe people tell me their Rover drove somewhere, parked for a short period, then would not start until it had cooled off a little; I think of the crank position sensor which can kill the spark plugs when it starts to go bad. Is coolant still being lost?

 

yes, the coolant is, and the error code that was pulled by my local pep boys is p0335. How much does it cost to repair that? They said they tuned it up, I was thinking after I got her back the last time, she wasnt running well. I told them I believed the spark plugs werent gapped properly and I also felt the never changed the wires for the TUNE UP.. None the less I am going to try and fix this myself along with my cousin who is a ASE mechanic. Everyone's guidance is appreciated in advance.. The weather is going to have to break a little before we get this going though.. its Connecticut BRICK outside in Maryland right now.

I looked up the CKP sensor is that the Bosch Crank Position Sensor ??? Lord knows I dont need to be ordering the wrong parts.

 

Thank you DiscoRover I am GOING TO KEEP BIG RED FOR SPITE but I am also going to learn about my car and the CC company is in the process of getting my $$ back. I should have it in about 1 month.. On another note she broke down yesterday over heated. Had it towed home. went out this morning and tried to start her after reading through the forum, she cranked ~~~ PLEASE SEE MY LAST POSTS FOR THE ENTIRE STORY OF TODAY :confuse d:

 

The crank position sensor is between $70 - $100 part. Takes about an hour of shop time. It is located on driver side rear of engine. If it is acting up, no spark. Pour cold water on it and usually it will come back to life. Will get worse.

If planning to do this yourself, take parts off carefully, every nut and bolt and spacer must go back on in exact sequence. Easier if new unit plugged in and allowed to hang down. Small hands a big plus.

 

Post the video to youtube and then paste the link in the forum.

 

I have read countless threads about head gasket failures and replacements gone wrong. Why does no one mention if the t-stat was replaced when HG work was done? Seems to me that its a small amount of money to help insure the vehicle is working properly. I happen to work at a LR dealer in MD and I know that disco was not here for work. I watched a tech who has been here way longer than me put a used engine in a disco that the old engine overheated and he told the SM there was no reason to replace the t-stat. Are you kidding me?

 

Agreed. Any work in the engine that could free up gunk to float about in the cooling system (gasket jobs, cooling flush, radiator swap, water pump replace ) can easily result in stuff clogging the tiny "metering" holes in the top of the D2 stat. IMHO not only should it be done, it should also be that last thing done after a cooling flush. Cheap insurance.

The coolant thru those openings mixes with cold return coolant from the radiator and warms up the stat to open. Do you really want less hot water entering the stat, so it will take longer to open fully?