best year discovery under 04 to buy
Well if it's a disco 1995 was the first full year in the USA with a few in 1994 as well, so you probably won't be able to go much further back than that unless you get a rrc.
I just scrapped my '94 DI. I bought it for parts four or five years ago for $500. It was in excellent shape with only 86K on the odometer. That was the first year for the DI in the US. So that's as far back as you can go with them.
Classic's on the other hand first came to the US in '87. The first two years they were equipped with the 3.5L V8 and the LT230 locking center diff. So you got the good with the bad, an anemic engine with a flexible and strong transfer case. The 3.9L was introduced in '89. Again, you had good and bad points. First, the good was the 3.9L. Counter that with the loss of a manually locking center diff. Be thankful that the '89 was the last year without ABS so brakes were simple. Mourn the fact that the 14CU engine management system wasn't the easiest to diagnose. The years between '90 and '93 have there strengths and weaknesses but nothing really important happened to the Classic until the introduction of the LWB in '93. It has the larger 4.2L Rover V8 (an engine that, when new, had its teething pains with bad crank problems, twenty years on, pretty much solved), mid year incorporated 24 spline diffs and axles and air suspension (most have swapped out to coils by now). The biggest change came in '95 with the revision of the dash to meet US regs about air bags. Most see the '95 as the ultimate Classic and prices are higher accordingly. The biggest problem with '95's is the scarcity of unique interior parts. Little things like speaker grille covers and instrument bezels are obscenely expensive in the used market.
The key with any of these models years is to inspect the truck as fully as you can. Look for rust in the wheel wells, the firewall, the floors, the sills, the rear body crossmember, the rear cargo floor and interior walls. It's amazing how poorly these trucks hold up to rust when you think they were made in an island nation. Beyond that, most other mechanical issues can be easily overcome. I'd take a clean, rust free truck with mechanical issues any day over a shell rotting off the frame.
In case you haven't noticed, I sell used parts for these trucks. I've been doing it full time for well over a dozen years. I've owned Rovers new and used and rebuilt an old Series from the ground up. I have very strong opinions about the various trucks Rover has made of the years. Some Rovers I love, others, I wouldn't own no matter what.
Classic's on the other hand first came to the US in '87. The first two years they were equipped with the 3.5L V8 and the LT230 locking center diff. So you got the good with the bad, an anemic engine with a flexible and strong transfer case. The 3.9L was introduced in '89. Again, you had good and bad points. First, the good was the 3.9L. Counter that with the loss of a manually locking center diff. Be thankful that the '89 was the last year without ABS so brakes were simple. Mourn the fact that the 14CU engine management system wasn't the easiest to diagnose. The years between '90 and '93 have there strengths and weaknesses but nothing really important happened to the Classic until the introduction of the LWB in '93. It has the larger 4.2L Rover V8 (an engine that, when new, had its teething pains with bad crank problems, twenty years on, pretty much solved), mid year incorporated 24 spline diffs and axles and air suspension (most have swapped out to coils by now). The biggest change came in '95 with the revision of the dash to meet US regs about air bags. Most see the '95 as the ultimate Classic and prices are higher accordingly. The biggest problem with '95's is the scarcity of unique interior parts. Little things like speaker grille covers and instrument bezels are obscenely expensive in the used market.
The key with any of these models years is to inspect the truck as fully as you can. Look for rust in the wheel wells, the firewall, the floors, the sills, the rear body crossmember, the rear cargo floor and interior walls. It's amazing how poorly these trucks hold up to rust when you think they were made in an island nation. Beyond that, most other mechanical issues can be easily overcome. I'd take a clean, rust free truck with mechanical issues any day over a shell rotting off the frame.
In case you haven't noticed, I sell used parts for these trucks. I've been doing it full time for well over a dozen years. I've owned Rovers new and used and rebuilt an old Series from the ground up. I have very strong opinions about the various trucks Rover has made of the years. Some Rovers I love, others, I wouldn't own no matter what.
Didn't know they only went back to really 95,I just googled first year production of discovery and said 80 something,didn't know that was over seas.I've always loved discovery's but I'm scared of them with my lack of knowledge and stories I've heard.I can rip into my jeep and fix almost anything,but it's time for a change and hope I can figure what year and how to work on them.I will just keep reading and asking questions.Thanks everyone
honestly, coming from a XJ myself i would tell you to find a 94-95. you'll find it fairly familiar, and so would any mechanic for the most part. anything after that it starts getting more and more proprietary land rover.
i went from this:

to this:

glad i made the switch. i live 3.5-4 hours minimum from real wheeling, and last year i only made 2 trips to actually GO wheeling... i parted out the thing and made a good chunk of change then got into the disco for less than what i budgeted for. its much more refined inside and out despite it's quirks. its nowhere near as indestructible as the jeep (as far as the motor/trans goes) but i'm not 19 anymore and dont need to beat the **** out of a truck.
as far as the disco being a money pit? it hasnt been yet. besides cleaning it up, i've just put on tires, two rear window motors and the headliner. my jeep was the real money pit.. i couldnt just "let it be"... i always needed to add "one more thing." i've always wanted on of these things and i'm very happy with my decision.

to this:

glad i made the switch. i live 3.5-4 hours minimum from real wheeling, and last year i only made 2 trips to actually GO wheeling... i parted out the thing and made a good chunk of change then got into the disco for less than what i budgeted for. its much more refined inside and out despite it's quirks. its nowhere near as indestructible as the jeep (as far as the motor/trans goes) but i'm not 19 anymore and dont need to beat the **** out of a truck.
as far as the disco being a money pit? it hasnt been yet. besides cleaning it up, i've just put on tires, two rear window motors and the headliner. my jeep was the real money pit.. i couldnt just "let it be"... i always needed to add "one more thing." i've always wanted on of these things and i'm very happy with my decision.
I'm in same boat not using it like I use to,always wanting to add something and all I want is a little more room and refinement and have always wanted one.do you mind me asking what you paid for yours and do you take it off road and how does perform nothing extreme.if I can leave it stock and still have fun with it,thats all I want.Thanks
paid 2300 w/ 119k miles, got it from the original owner. always dealer serviced, SUPER clean but it sat for the last couple years with minimal driving. i havent really wheeled it yet the low range is beast compared to the jeep (3.31 vs. 2.71) and the thing essentially has long arms f/r when compared to a jeep (ford style radius arm front, wishbone rear like a WJ but with long lowers). i plan on taking it to rausch creek this summer and up to new hampshire in the fall. stock for stock, this will walk a XJ off road.
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ajusaf
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Feb 21, 2008 09:21 AM




