Check Engine Lights been on & today REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE LIGHT?
#1
07-15-2013, 01:28 AM
Check Engine Lights been on & today REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE LIGHT?
Hi. LR3 2006 SE
The emblem Check Engine Light(the one that looks like a pipe fitting)has been on for a while now.The mechanic and owner of shoppe a fairly thorough German guy plugged it in back in Spring and got:
PO171 Bank 1 too Lean
PO174 bank2
Looked for air leak in hoses etc ..says there are none, it is probably the computer/software..probably has to go to dealer to solve.
Have not gone yet..Fuel MPG has dropped from 14.7/9 to 14.3.
Today...going at 70+ Mph, felt a little change in power for a second and then ding "REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE" appears..
Dear Experts please advise..would rather not go to dealer..
On this site, similar problem/suggestions for todays issue(Reduce Engine Performance) posting back some years have been:
Oxygen Sensor
MAF Sensor
Clean/Replace Throttle Body
Replace Coil Pack Diode
Air Filter
Coolant Temp Sensor
But this now is a combination.
PLEASE HELP.
THANK YOU
The emblem Check Engine Light(the one that looks like a pipe fitting)has been on for a while now.The mechanic and owner of shoppe a fairly thorough German guy plugged it in back in Spring and got:
PO171 Bank 1 too Lean
PO174 bank2
Looked for air leak in hoses etc ..says there are none, it is probably the computer/software..probably has to go to dealer to solve.
Have not gone yet..Fuel MPG has dropped from 14.7/9 to 14.3.
Today...going at 70+ Mph, felt a little change in power for a second and then ding "REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE" appears..
Dear Experts please advise..would rather not go to dealer..
On this site, similar problem/suggestions for todays issue(Reduce Engine Performance) posting back some years have been:
Oxygen Sensor
MAF Sensor
Clean/Replace Throttle Body
Replace Coil Pack Diode
Air Filter
Coolant Temp Sensor
But this now is a combination.
PLEASE HELP.
THANK YOU
Last edited by Athana; 07-15-2013 at 07:36 PM.
#2
07-17-2013, 03:28 AM
Overlanding
Ok. I am having similar issues and also I suck at explaining stuff. BUT I will try...
We had 3 codes. The EVAP and the MAF sensor. While taking care of those the same codes you discussed popped up (and like 5 others). I got those some of them to go away and I have to run to have my codes pulled again. (promise to post again tomorrow what those are)
This is what has NOT worked...but has improved the overall performance of the car. They were fairly simple. I did some and the hubs did one.
-MAF Sensor Replaced
-Cleaned Throttle Body
-Changed Air filter
-Checked all connection points for hoses
-New battery (not to do with the codes)
I still have the dashboard like but NOT 'Reduced Engine Performance'
Again, I haven't lobbed $$ at the problem yet. But I fixed a few things had the codes cleared and now my light is back on so I have to pull codes again tomorrow. I will let you know if I find anything that works. I will say making these changes made me idle lower and she feels better. My MPG's are all over the place as well.
I also have a battery light that comes and goes. A fan that is louder than sin. (whole separate issue...maybe?) So I am changing a lot.
We had 3 codes. The EVAP and the MAF sensor. While taking care of those the same codes you discussed popped up (and like 5 others). I got those some of them to go away and I have to run to have my codes pulled again. (promise to post again tomorrow what those are)
This is what has NOT worked...but has improved the overall performance of the car. They were fairly simple. I did some and the hubs did one.
-MAF Sensor Replaced
-Cleaned Throttle Body
-Changed Air filter
-Checked all connection points for hoses
-New battery (not to do with the codes)
I still have the dashboard like but NOT 'Reduced Engine Performance'
Again, I haven't lobbed $$ at the problem yet. But I fixed a few things had the codes cleared and now my light is back on so I have to pull codes again tomorrow. I will let you know if I find anything that works. I will say making these changes made me idle lower and she feels better. My MPG's are all over the place as well.
I also have a battery light that comes and goes. A fan that is louder than sin. (whole separate issue...maybe?) So I am changing a lot.
#3
07-17-2013, 11:27 AM
Ok. I am having similar issues and also I suck at explaining stuff. BUT I will try...
We had 3 codes. The EVAP and the MAF sensor. While taking care of those the same codes you discussed popped up (and like 5 others). I got those some of them to go away and I have to run to have my codes pulled again. (promise to post again tomorrow what those are)
This is what has NOT worked...but has improved the overall performance of the car. They were fairly simple. I did some and the hubs did one.
-MAF Sensor Replaced
-Cleaned Throttle Body
-Changed Air filter
-Checked all connection points for hoses
-New battery (not to do with the codes)
I still have the dashboard like but NOT 'Reduced Engine Performance'
Again, I haven't lobbed $$ at the problem yet. But I fixed a few things had the codes cleared and now my light is back on so I have to pull codes again tomorrow. I will let you know if I find anything that works. I will say making these changes made me idle lower and she feels better. My MPG's are all over the place as well.
I also have a battery light that comes and goes. A fan that is louder than sin. (whole separate issue...maybe?) So I am changing a lot.
We had 3 codes. The EVAP and the MAF sensor. While taking care of those the same codes you discussed popped up (and like 5 others). I got those some of them to go away and I have to run to have my codes pulled again. (promise to post again tomorrow what those are)
This is what has NOT worked...but has improved the overall performance of the car. They were fairly simple. I did some and the hubs did one.
-MAF Sensor Replaced
-Cleaned Throttle Body
-Changed Air filter
-Checked all connection points for hoses
-New battery (not to do with the codes)
I still have the dashboard like but NOT 'Reduced Engine Performance'
Again, I haven't lobbed $$ at the problem yet. But I fixed a few things had the codes cleared and now my light is back on so I have to pull codes again tomorrow. I will let you know if I find anything that works. I will say making these changes made me idle lower and she feels better. My MPG's are all over the place as well.
I also have a battery light that comes and goes. A fan that is louder than sin. (whole separate issue...maybe?) So I am changing a lot.
There are experts which I hoped would chime in to give us both some suggestions.The prices for parts at this dealer are also very high compared parts Forum Members had in posts.
#4
07-17-2013, 12:19 PM
Just FYI, the LR3 section of the forum gets more traffic from people that know the newer ones well.
The lean codes can be any number of things, and I have seen several different issues cause them, from a vacuum leak, bad MAFS, vehicle in need of a tune up, O2 sensor, exhaust leak, bad gas, to software calibration file.
For an EVAP code, the P code is needed to be any help.
The dealer, or most specific Rover shops, can pull what is called the Adaptive Fuel Trim. This is by far the most useful tool in figuring out where the issue lies, as it shows fuel trims based on engine speed/load, as opposed to current value.
If you like, call the dealership, ask them how much they would charge to print out the Adaptive Fuel Trims (make sure the print out has both Long Term, and Sub-Feedback, and is pulled and printed prior to anything else being done) and I would go ahead and have the software for both the engine and trans updated at this time. Most dealerships should charge about an hour of labor for this, more if you want them to diagnose the issue as well.
If you just get the print out, post it here, and I will be glad to go through it with you, and let you know what I would recommend. I would ask for a copy of it, again prior to repairs, even if you have them diagnose and repair it.
Plan on dropping the vehicle off for a few hours if you have them do the updates as well, as the trans update cannot be done with the fluid temp hot.
The battery light, and fan speed issue will be separate, however updated software alone may take care of the fan, depending on what exactly is causing it.
The lean codes can be any number of things, and I have seen several different issues cause them, from a vacuum leak, bad MAFS, vehicle in need of a tune up, O2 sensor, exhaust leak, bad gas, to software calibration file.
For an EVAP code, the P code is needed to be any help.
The dealer, or most specific Rover shops, can pull what is called the Adaptive Fuel Trim. This is by far the most useful tool in figuring out where the issue lies, as it shows fuel trims based on engine speed/load, as opposed to current value.
If you like, call the dealership, ask them how much they would charge to print out the Adaptive Fuel Trims (make sure the print out has both Long Term, and Sub-Feedback, and is pulled and printed prior to anything else being done) and I would go ahead and have the software for both the engine and trans updated at this time. Most dealerships should charge about an hour of labor for this, more if you want them to diagnose the issue as well.
If you just get the print out, post it here, and I will be glad to go through it with you, and let you know what I would recommend. I would ask for a copy of it, again prior to repairs, even if you have them diagnose and repair it.
Plan on dropping the vehicle off for a few hours if you have them do the updates as well, as the trans update cannot be done with the fluid temp hot.
The battery light, and fan speed issue will be separate, however updated software alone may take care of the fan, depending on what exactly is causing it.
#5
07-17-2013, 03:22 PM
Overlanding
So my Pep Boys was too hectic to check my codes so I kept trying stuff and for now my light is off! I haven't driven far yet so I hope not to speak too soon. Also, you can by a code reader at an auto parts store...most people on the forum suggest the IIDTool. It's expensive, but they say it pays for itself I don't know.
So my day-
-Called Rover Parts they told me a Coil Pack Diode did not exist for my vehicle (posted to another thread to see if that was correct).
-I lubed the battery coils (still have my battery light on)
-I bought a new gas cap ($19.06 including tax)
-I lubed gas cap fittings
-I drove a little bit. Light on. I drank a cup of coffee. Went back out started car LIGHT OFF. I drove a little bit. LIGHT STILL OFF. No REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE since cleaning throttle body and now no dash board light.
My daddy the FAR AWAY from me mechanic says that one code can set off a BUNCH of codes. I am hoping that this was the case.
Roverguy7 I just read your reply. I am going to call the dealership now and see what it would cost for them to do the update. That location aggravates me haven't found one nice or honest person there, but I can literally see their service department from my house. Once the service manager didn't even bother to turn around and look at me as we spoke...I just thought it was strange from a place that sells Land Rovers and Jaguars that cost more than my house!
Now pulling the Adaptive Fuel Trim will that help address all issues or just the lean and evap. I promise I will start writing down P codes! I appreciate your time and willingness to help.
So my day-
-Called Rover Parts they told me a Coil Pack Diode did not exist for my vehicle (posted to another thread to see if that was correct).
-I lubed the battery coils (still have my battery light on)
-I bought a new gas cap ($19.06 including tax)
-I lubed gas cap fittings
-I drove a little bit. Light on. I drank a cup of coffee. Went back out started car LIGHT OFF. I drove a little bit. LIGHT STILL OFF. No REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE since cleaning throttle body and now no dash board light.
My daddy the FAR AWAY from me mechanic says that one code can set off a BUNCH of codes. I am hoping that this was the case.
Roverguy7 I just read your reply. I am going to call the dealership now and see what it would cost for them to do the update. That location aggravates me haven't found one nice or honest person there, but I can literally see their service department from my house. Once the service manager didn't even bother to turn around and look at me as we spoke...I just thought it was strange from a place that sells Land Rovers and Jaguars that cost more than my house!
Now pulling the Adaptive Fuel Trim will that help address all issues or just the lean and evap. I promise I will start writing down P codes! I appreciate your time and willingness to help.
#6
07-17-2013, 04:31 PM
It is not a diode for the coils, it is a capacitor, I can get the P/N tomorrow if it would help, but it is posted on here somewhere.
The only times I have seen it be the gas cap on one of these, is if the seal was torn, or the ratcheting wasn't working at all.
It is true that one fault can cause others, but they would be related, and even though it sounds strange, the fuel system, and the fueling systems are not really related.
The adaptive fuel trims will not help at all with the EVAP(unless the purge valve is stuck open), or anything else for that matter that is not related to engine fueling. However, with as many known fueling issues as these have, it is either get the trims, or take a guess at some point.
Again, may sound strange, but the battery light has almost nothing to do with the battery itself. Most likely looking alternator for that one.
The only times I have seen it be the gas cap on one of these, is if the seal was torn, or the ratcheting wasn't working at all.
It is true that one fault can cause others, but they would be related, and even though it sounds strange, the fuel system, and the fueling systems are not really related.
The adaptive fuel trims will not help at all with the EVAP(unless the purge valve is stuck open), or anything else for that matter that is not related to engine fueling. However, with as many known fueling issues as these have, it is either get the trims, or take a guess at some point.
Again, may sound strange, but the battery light has almost nothing to do with the battery itself. Most likely looking alternator for that one.
#7
07-17-2013, 05:14 PM
Overlanding
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...3-18143/page5/
Some one posted the part number and some pics you posted awhile back in the LR3 section.
It's not strange... "even though it sounds strange, the fuel system, and the fueling systems are not really related." I went through both with my first Disco.
I know you are right about the alternator. I tried to pretend it was NOT the alternator. I know it is... I had this argument with the service guy after he kept testing the alternator good before and after the new battery. I argued that he wasn't testing with the battery light on. He said 'if it's bad, it will always test bad.' I KNOW better... Anyhow. I think I will not mess with the 'diode' -- I mean CAPACITOR (thank you for that) that I was looking for and just replace the alternator. Let you know how that goes. I can't do it until at least the weekend. Which will give me time to see if that check engine light comes on. If it does I will go get the trims, although the guessing keeps me occupied
Hope this has helped the original thread poster even a little. Thanks.
Some one posted the part number and some pics you posted awhile back in the LR3 section.
It's not strange... "even though it sounds strange, the fuel system, and the fueling systems are not really related." I went through both with my first Disco.
I know you are right about the alternator. I tried to pretend it was NOT the alternator. I know it is... I had this argument with the service guy after he kept testing the alternator good before and after the new battery. I argued that he wasn't testing with the battery light on. He said 'if it's bad, it will always test bad.' I KNOW better... Anyhow. I think I will not mess with the 'diode' -- I mean CAPACITOR (thank you for that) that I was looking for and just replace the alternator. Let you know how that goes. I can't do it until at least the weekend. Which will give me time to see if that check engine light comes on. If it does I will go get the trims, although the guessing keeps me occupied
Hope this has helped the original thread poster even a little. Thanks.
#8
08-13-2013, 04:43 PM
So follow up..went to another place with my check engine light on & they plugged in to computer and all the
original indicators I first wrote came up plus "Mass Air Flow Sensor".
They ordered part and replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor"..
MAFS went off but Lean 171/174 still on..
Did a smoke test ..looked everywhere..no leak.
He determined as did German Tech at other place that it is a Computer software issue and looked and found a Bulletin from Land Rover detailing it so.
Well we went on our way..with our check engine light on...figuring Software issue is not an emergency..About a week later..Check engine light disappears..not to be seen again !
?
Am sure it had something to do with bad gas..or leaving car running whilst taking in bad gas as it turned on right after we filled up at the rattiest place in town.(Delta..Premium as always)
original indicators I first wrote came up plus "Mass Air Flow Sensor".
They ordered part and replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor"..
MAFS went off but Lean 171/174 still on..
Did a smoke test ..looked everywhere..no leak.
He determined as did German Tech at other place that it is a Computer software issue and looked and found a Bulletin from Land Rover detailing it so.
Well we went on our way..with our check engine light on...figuring Software issue is not an emergency..About a week later..Check engine light disappears..not to be seen again !
?
Am sure it had something to do with bad gas..or leaving car running whilst taking in bad gas as it turned on right after we filled up at the rattiest place in town.(Delta..Premium as always)
#9
01-22-2014, 08:47 PM
1st Gear
It is not a diode for the coils, it is a capacitor, I can get the P/N tomorrow if it would help, but it is posted on here somewhere.
The only times I have seen it be the gas cap on one of these, is if the seal was torn, or the ratcheting wasn't working at all.
It is true that one fault can cause others, but they would be related, and even though it sounds strange, the fuel system, and the fueling systems are not really related.
The adaptive fuel trims will not help at all with the EVAP(unless the purge valve is stuck open), or anything else for that matter that is not related to engine fueling. However, with as many known fueling issues as these have, it is either get the trims, or take a guess at some point.
Again, may sound strange, but the battery light has almost nothing to do with the battery itself. Most likely looking alternator for that one.
The only times I have seen it be the gas cap on one of these, is if the seal was torn, or the ratcheting wasn't working at all.
It is true that one fault can cause others, but they would be related, and even though it sounds strange, the fuel system, and the fueling systems are not really related.
The adaptive fuel trims will not help at all with the EVAP(unless the purge valve is stuck open), or anything else for that matter that is not related to engine fueling. However, with as many known fueling issues as these have, it is either get the trims, or take a guess at some point.
Again, may sound strange, but the battery light has almost nothing to do with the battery itself. Most likely looking alternator for that one.
Could you help with the P/N for the diode? Thanks!
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