ThanksSavannah Buzz;
That's acceptable in an emergency quick fix. In our shop we strive to fix our customer's car as per manufacture's specs so the heater (if its up to us) should work as designed.

We are contacting Atlantic British now,

Thanks,

Nativo

 

It was sent in jest, of course. But you would not be surprised at the number of vehicles that owners report after purchase with no thermostat, heater hoses bypassed, fan belts on some crazy but wrong way, and my personal favorite, the polarity reversed wires to the electric condenser fan. Good luck on the gremlin, and please post back. We would like to make the source of these out of spec stats known so that others may avoid them.

 

If anybody's still following this thread...My previous owner musta poured a ton of stop leak in the cooling system... I can see li'l copper flakes floating around in the tank...
I'm going to pull the stat and check for opening temp & obstructions, have the Disco 2's had radiator core clogging problems?
As for take it to a radiator shop...just put on rebuilt heads and idles for about 10 min's then goes red...not drivable...yet(hopefull there...)

Also, heres' my solution for bleeding the cooling system...see attached pix. Mod painted for better visibility. Consists of a 3/8" to 1/4" brass bushing and a 1/4" brass drain. Drilled and tapped the radiator hose TEE for 3/8" pipe(MIP) thread, cut down & epoxied the bushing in the TEE, w/ the drain already doped( w/ teflon paste) and tightened, then mixed up a paste of epoxy and milled fibergalss fiber( collected from the exhaust end of a fiberglass shops grinding booth) and potted the whole shebang in place, then painted (whatever colors a friend had in his furniture refinishing shop...) for photo clarity...
Works like a champ, no leaks, Cost w/ the 5 min. epxoy was about $7...beats $70 for the whole hose ***'y from the dealer...(plus a 230 mile round trip...) That's coolant squirting out in the pix...
Oh, one more thing, 1st step, w/ a small wire drill brush, I roughed up the TEE at the site of the mod. gives the epoxy a better bite. Also, cleaned w/ carb cleaner 1st, 1st...

 

Dexcool will do that to a radiator, may be partially full of sludge. Top of stat also has small metering holes to bring hot coolant into the chamber to activate the stat, if gunked up, takes a long time for stat to finally open. Your invention is interesting. I think a lot of guys give up purging the air because of the coolant spilling. IMHO another improvement could be a bleeder valve that lets you attach a plastic hose to run off to a bucket. Keep purging till no more bubbles show coming out, plus you get to re-use the coolant.

You think this gadget will hold 20 PSI at 230F? Of course, if it doesn't, you'll know pretty quick.... might carry a couple of 24 packs of bottled water in the back, just in case. If not needed, mix with adult beverage of choice and celebrate.

 

want to know how to bleed the coolant system without all that crap.

open both coolant openings and pour in the coolant into the bleeder screw. the air gets pushed out thru the degas bottle. once its filled the level will rise.

 

autozone sells some stop leak crap of which half a bottle of copper flakes i think its made by Baer or something like that. More than likely that is what you are seeing the stuff is nasty. I had it completly block the radiator in a jeep in under 15 minutes. you want to flash that sytem well, really well.

 

Hello everyone:
It's been over 1½yrs and we think we have a clue.

After 3 thermostat and 3 ECT sensors we now ordered a Land Rover OE Plastic Thermostat, but this time before installing it we boiled water (212F/100C) and we verified that it opens the way its supposed to. Then we install it and turned the engine while monitoring the data with our scanner and looking at the temp gauge.

This time we confirmed that temperature rises too fast and we also were monitoring the engine's temp with a laser temp gauge right by the metal pipe that comes out from the intake manifold (very close to the ect sensor). To our surprise when the ecu thought the coolant was at 210F it turned on the electric fan (as supposed to) but our laser gauge was indicating that the coolant temp was just 160F. We decided to continue monitoring and by the time the ecu/scanner/temp gauge was reading 231F our laser gauge was at 181F.

At that time we pulled out our LongAcre Racing Tire pyrometer and double checked the temp at the same point and also right at the base of the ect sensor and it matched the reading of the laser gauge.

So far we've dicover:

1. The engine is not overheating
2. The thermostat is working properly
3. The ECT sensor is working properly
4. The ECU is recongnicing the ECT reading 50F-60F higher than what the engine is.

Next we'll have a technician with the OEM scanner try to zero the system by the real engine temp.




Any thoughts???

 

Wiirng from ECT to ECU might be shorted, etc. Lower ohms make ECU think higher temps. Could try to substitute a fixed resistor (from Radio Scrap) as a test. The resistance chart in the engine managment section shows 20K ohms should yield about -10C reading. Nothing like a cold solder joint on a connector or circuit board to send resistance all over the place

 

Another thought....

The ECT for a D2 has two elements. On a D2, only one is used. On a Range Rover, the second element is used to drive the temp gauge directly.

If somehow both elements were hooked up in parallel, as they warmed up, the resistance would be lower than it should be, and ECT would supply wrong temp output. Here is a short booklet from LR on their different sensors for the three main types of fuel injection systems (this would be Motronic by Bosch). And pix of the ECT connector.