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How I fixed my Land Rover tick (slipped sleeve)

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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 06:10 AM
  #91  
rxcess's Avatar
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Originally Posted by dakirkpa
Did you complete your fix? I'm about to attempt on my Disco and would love to hear from others if they've had long term success... although this is a last resort measure so maybe it doesn't matter.
Yes, see post #86 above. Truck is still running fine with no tick. around 2K miles on since the fix. PM me if you'd like some pointers.
 

Last edited by rxcess; Nov 12, 2013 at 11:59 AM. Reason: add info
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 12:31 AM
  #92  
poncePR's Avatar
Mudding
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From: Sewaren,NJ 07077
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Im afraid if I do this to my disco and the tick goes away I'll start hearing other noises....:-).
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #93  
USAroverman's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2013
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From: Eastern PA
Default Liner position(s) when you start

Great post great work great write up. Thank you. Is it safe to assume the liners are all in the correct position before you drill or will some of them be slipped and obvious and then easy to return to correct position before drilling?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #94  
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Mudding
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From: Sewaren,NJ 07077
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They usually go back to correct position,probably the compression seats them back into position every time.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 03:36 AM
  #95  
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Arv
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From: London
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I've sat and read most of this thread, and its great, with a mix of humour too.
I'm just another guy sitting here, with that empty feeling and denial that it not going to be me, but the reality is its a slipped liner..lol

Can I ask, is there sufficient meat on the underside of the block to drill upward and use the head of a bolt to overlap one side of a liner, rather than drilling 90 degrees into the block?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 07:11 AM
  #96  
rxcess's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Arv
Can I ask, is there sufficient meat on the underside of the block to drill upward and use the head of a bolt to overlap one side of a liner, rather than drilling 90 degrees into the block?
That is an interesting idea. I can think of a few things that would have to be addressed.

1. Finding a good spot to put the bolt. Not sure if there is a good flat surface or an angle for drilling.

2. You would have to know that the liner is pushed up all the way to the headgasket.

3. After installation, if any part of the bolt head protrudes into the cylinder it would have to be ground flush with the inner surface of the liner or the piston skirt would hit it.

Somewhere in this tread it has been stated the liners always stop moving in the "right" position. Personally I have no idea if this happens. I think its highly unlikely the liners always stop in the right position. I believe where they stop is related to which direction the piston is traveling when the engine stops ....and I don't think it matters when using the pin method.

Eric
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #97  
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Any updates as to guys who have done this repair? Any failures yet as the start of this thread is a year old.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #98  
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From: Columbia, SC
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Hey, it's 2014, any more success stories with pinning the sleeves?
I've got a 2000 disco with 170k that I'm going to try this on.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:55 AM
  #99  
rxcess's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DiscoSD
Hey, it's 2014, any more success stories with pinning the sleeves?
I've got a 2000 disco with 170k that I'm going to try this on.
4K miles since i pinned the cylinder sleeves and no issues. Still quiet.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #100  
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I finished pinning my cylinders a few weekends ago and no more knocking. I would recommend if you are having the same problem be sure to find the root of the issue. Mine was a clogged radiator (damage done and slipped cylinder to prove it). I bought my disco off ebay and had never driven it before so now that I feel comfortable driving her she's providing me lots of opportunities to learn about LR inner workings. Still fighting a nasty oil drip so haven't logged over 1k miles yet but so far so good. Love not hearing a ticking time bomb.
 
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