Yeah that was one of the things i tried right after i changed the rockers/shafts & lifters. It made no difference whatsoever

 

If you're standing in front of the car looking rearward at the motor you will see a bleeder screw on a T-piece for the coolant immediately to the rear of the top of the radiator. The hose the runs off to the left of that T-piece and down to the thermostat is the hose i blocked with a bung.
Granted it's ramshackle thing to do but hey it worked and it matches the standard which Landrover made the rest of the motor to anyway

 

I can see you are fixated with the magnet idea. Why not try it out and satisfy your curiousity. What is there to lose ? The engine is junk anyway right ?
I personally doubt it would work but i like your left of centre thinking
I reckon you've also got nothing to lose trashing the inards of the thermostat and bunging up the pipe i suggested.
Motors never have an even temperature throughout. There are always hot spots. This motor is a dinosaur and has really crappy cooling jackets that i could see and my guess is the coolant perhaps isn't flowing quite fast enough in the back of the motor as perhaps it should be. Perhaps it's only 10 degrees too much but just enough for the liner to jump about. Interestingly my temp gauge in the car reads the same now as before. It takes a little bit longer to reach that temp but it sits exactly half way just as it did before. And like i say the fuel consumption is no different. The sender for the temp gauge is located at the top front of the motor. At that location perhaps my modification made no difference. But the back of the motor is obviously cooler now which is what i was really after anyway.

 

Okay, I want to try blocking off that line, but still don't get just how you did it. Both the hose and the thermostat would need blocking off, I hate to keep asking, but how exactly did you accomplish this, I need instructions!

Thanks!

 

Buddy there really isn't any more to it. The thermostat has had all the guts taken out and that hose i mentioned is blocked. And that is it. I used a PVC pipe cap or bung but you could use anything which is a tight fit to the internal diameter of the hose.
Goodluck !

 

10-4, it wasn't clear to me that you actually put a blockage in the hose and then reconnected, got it. I will try that, bleeder screw broke, so waiting on one, then I'll try your trick, and magnet if needed and post back.

Thanks!

 

So, temp regulation seems to be the key, Roman thanks!

I conducted a few experiments, first was water wetter and a 180 degree stock style t-stat. Thing is, because of the bypass the thing still ran 225 after idling for ten minutes, as observed using live data feed from scan tool. Blocking the hot bypass line was tough with normal pvc due to the high temps, either way I still had the liner slipping and making noise. Eventually I removed the t-stat and installed an 8 inch section of lead pipe and removed the bypass line altogether and used a short lead pipe and cap to block off at the bleeder in a short piece of hose where the bypass line used to be. Ran it that way for nearly an hour with no noise! It took a while, but I was able to finally achieve 179 degrees and still no noise. With the experiment proven I will install an inline t-stat as others have. I will experiment both with 180 and 160 stats. At 170 heat is decent and the ecu comes out of closed loop right around 140. Any perceived issues with potential carbon build up at those temps pales compared to how much healthier the internals are at the reduced temps. These motors are such an old design that temps over 200 are the real issue in my opinion. In any event, I leaned at least in my case achieving lower running temps with a proper t-stat set up that doesn't mix hot coolant straight out of the cylinder heads back into the block is the best fix possible! The key here is to determine at what temp the liners begin to move freely. For my engine that seems to be at or just above 205ish. Once this is established you can determine whether or not lower running temps can cure the condition.

Hope this helps the next guy, and I'm glad I tried this before drilling holes all over the block to screw liners in place on an engine that's simply running too hot.

 

edouglass well done !
Great job and a more scientific approach than mine.
Presumably Land Rover would have known all this and the solution too unless they are even dumber than i thought.
So it begs the question: Why the hell not redesign the Thermostat so it shuts off the hot recirculating engine coolant properly and then do a recall to replace them ? It would be a half hour to 1 hour max job in the workshop. It surely would have saved everyone all these headaches and their trashed reputation with this motor.
Once again well done edouglass ! I'm glad i managed to save someone from experiencing all the pain which i did.

 

Rover made these engines run hot to clean up their emissions. That was what it took to make an engine from the 60's run clean enough to get certified in the next century. The liners wouldn't move if they had been pressed all the way into their bores, but then again they don't move unless the engine gets too hot at some point. Combine sloppy machine work with an aging truck that hasn't been properly maintained, has weak/low coolant, failing fan clutches and seized secondary fans and you get the perfect recipe for a slipped liner. As to why Rover done anything anything to address the issue, I haven't read of any ticking liners in these trucks until they are well past warranty. They don't care. Remember, the people on this forum who are actually dealing with this issue know better than stop by the dealership and hand over $50k+ for this junk. If all of the known issues with these trucks didn't exist I wouldn't have been able to get one so cheap.

 

amen to that