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How I fixed my Land Rover tick (slipped sleeve)

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  #131  
Old 03-02-2016, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Roman67
If you're standing in front of the car looking rearward at the motor you will see a bleeder screw on a T-piece for the coolant immediately to the rear of the top of the radiator. The hose the runs off to the left of that T-piece and down to the thermostat is the hose i blocked with a bung.
Granted it's ramshackle thing to do but hey it worked and it matches the standard which Landrover made the rest of the motor to anyway
If I could ask, If the hose coming from the Tee (bleed screw) part to the thermostat is blocked, so the other hole on the thermostat should also be blocked? Im pertaining to the middle top hole of the thermostat not the angled one. Is that all needed to be done? Or, move the hose to the middle and block the Y part of the thermostat? Sorry, I cant do much of the rest of the earlier post but this probably I can. Thank you
 
  #132  
Old 03-02-2016, 07:55 PM
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Romans method was to bypass the hose that comes out the passenger side of the t fitting, which is really a bypass of coolant from the radiator, which cools of course, and directly pumps uncooked water back into the block. If you could tell me more about what you're trying to cure I'd be happy to offer specific insight. I found my liner slipping happened just around 200 degrees, and even with a 180 stock style thermostat the truck will idle up to 225. So, my fix was an inline thermostat, 170 or 180, you're just buying the housing, hose, and bleeder fitting, and then you can play with actual thermostats. Just google disco 2 inline thermostat parts list and you'll be good. It's where I ended up after much fiddling, you're doing yourself a favor by just getting it. I've added a few thousand miles and still no noise or issue.
 
  #133  
Old 03-02-2016, 08:11 PM
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By t fitting, I'm referring to the factory plastic bleeder.
 
  #134  
Old 03-02-2016, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by edouglass
Romans method was to bypass the hose that comes out the passenger side of the t fitting, which is really a bypass of coolant from the radiator, which cools of course, and directly pumps uncooked water back into the block. If you could tell me more about what you're trying to cure I'd be happy to offer specific insight. I found my liner slipping happened just around 200 degrees, and even with a 180 stock style thermostat the truck will idle up to 225. So, my fix was an inline thermostat, 170 or 180, you're just buying the housing, hose, and bleeder fitting, and then you can play with actual thermostats. Just google disco 2 inline thermostat parts list and you'll be good. It's where I ended up after much fiddling, you're doing yourself a favor by just getting it. I've added a few thousand miles and still no noise or issue.
Thank you. I just got my UltraGuage and for few days I was using it. After reading this thread, I started the engine and idle to warm it up and found out that around 168 degrees the ticking started and it was soft until it reached 200 when the tick got louder. But definitely I would like to try any solution even the inline fix to see if it will work on mine or even just to lessen the ticking. Also, where can I find the post or article to do the way you solved it? I tried googling it but there are none specific to which is the working solution but thanks again in advance.
 
  #135  
Old 03-03-2016, 12:36 PM
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Inline thermostat modification done - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

This was first to pop up, simple google search, "discovery 2 inline thermostat parts"

Good luck, concerned that the 168 that you noise begins may keep this from helping you much, but definitely shouldn't run warmer than about 188-190 on the high end with the 180 inline stat.
 
  #136  
Old 03-06-2016, 04:15 AM
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Post Slipping liners

Actually i carefully drilled and smashed out the innards of the thermostat so there was no obstruction to waterflow in any direction. I then blocked the hose mentioned with a bung. The hot coolant from the engine is then forced through the radiator to properly cool it before it's directed back to the engine.
It was an experiment really and wasn't to be a permanent fix . As edouglass mentioned an inline thermostat would be a better fix. However, i haven't gotten around to doing that yet on mine and it still runs beautiful with no rattles.
For some reason Landrover designed this thermostat so that it didn't stop the hot engine coolant from recirculating even when at running temp. I'm of the opinion that the hot water recirculating from the engine also impedes the cooler water from the bottom of the radiator from entering the engine properly perhaps because of pressure and temp difference ? Landrover probably designed it this way for emissions reasons i guess to keep the engine running as optimal as it could temperature wise.
As the engine ages and tolerances grow between the alloy block and cast iron liners from all of the slight overheating the liners then start to slip. My car is also running on LPG which runs slightly hotter also. (though i run it a bit rich to minimize the rise in temp)
In the end as far as i can see the thermostat is the culprit and Landrover should have fixed it !
 
  #137  
Old 03-07-2016, 10:42 AM
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and what happens in the summer when it over heats, because the hot water is just rat racing thru the radiator and is not being cooled.
 
  #138  
Old 03-07-2016, 01:45 PM
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There is no issue with overheating using the inline thermostat set up. Anyone that has ever posited otherwise has been incorrect from the dozens of posts I've researched. The factory set up was a poor attempt at, I don't know. It's been commonly thought the OE set up was to help reduce emissions, but I don't see how that would really work. How much lower are temps in the combustion chamber now that the hot spots in the block are 25 degrees cooler? But I digress.
 
  #139  
Old 03-26-2016, 08:28 PM
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Default slipped sleeve

Hi Savannah Buzz.


I have a 2003 Discovery 2 with 97K miles and slipped sleeves.


Do you know anyone in Georgia that can pin the sleeves?


Thanks or your previous posts. They helped a lot!


























Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
toad2 - one idea is that the sleeve, when slipping, can't keep up with the reversing piston. So as rpm increases, it can't travel all the way to "clink" before it is headed the other way. So it quiets down as rpm gets above a certain point.
 
  #140  
Old 05-15-2016, 05:39 PM
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I would parachute in if I could to help!
 


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