Check your local stores, the one a mile from my house has them.
It's possible Advance is phasing them out in favour of Moog/Precision, though that would surprise me as most chains carry a high end & a low end line of parts, even though the 1-0005 & 1-0154 aren't low end.

 

On a scale of 1-5, how difficult would this be for someone who took auto shop in high school? It doesn't sound that bad with the right parts, tools, and a Rave manual.

 

i did not take shop in high scool.

been around cars for years.

pretty much printed out these pictures and went to town.

i used a vice and a socket and a paint marker pen so everything was still in alighnment.

boom good to go.

 

No auto shop for me either but not afraid to try. IMHO, the R&D of the shaft is easy. 8 nuts and some wiggling and you're done - with the right tool (LR socket deal thing...). As for pressing the joints, seems straight forward but I took to a guy because proper balance is an issue.

 

Did the front u-joint on the front drive shaft today. No real vibration issues, but there were two legs of the spider that would simply not emit grease from dust seals when applied. Everything was fine, but new joint is noticeably tighter than old, and now I have a faint growl on decel from front diff. I'm guessing the tightened connection simply makes it more noticeable. It got better all the way home (20 mile journey from dad's shop.)
Anyone with similar experiences?

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Once I get the y-pipe and cats replaced (wasn't expecting that) I'm going to give this a whirl.

 

Sometimes a whack of the yoke opposite of the one where the grease won't come out will get it to flow. Use only a brass or other soft faced hammer, like a plastic dead blow.

 

Thanks AC. I did try the whacking it trick, for a year, and kept pumping and pumping grease hoping it would take. Nada. Upon removal, I discovered no dry needle bearings, just barely appreciable presence of grease in offending caps. And what I thought at first were little plastic caps blocking the path for grease to effectively flow through spider into end cap. Then it dawned on me: second owner (I am third) was rather lax with maintenance, and plastic is nothing more than "cooked" petroleum. The "little plastic caps" were grease cooked by the cat. Wish I had taken pictures.

 

I have a 2001 LR D2, and I want to attempt this. So, my understanding is that the FRONT and REAR shafts need to be rebuilt. What is the parts list? I read where I need 3 U joints(Neapco 1-0005) and one CV kit (7-0081NG), some Castrol Blue Grease, and some time...

Is this all? What am I missing? Any help is appreciated.

Kevin

 

That's for the front, assuming you still have the OE propshaft. Plus one or two for the rear, depending on what you have for the rear propshaft. Unless you know for a fact what's under the truck now (i.e., you're not the original owner), the best thing is to measure them before buying.