Propshaft Rebuild
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Dumb question- sorry
So obviously, this is an option, it looks like it will cost me about $600 of i put it on. Any recommendations for which one to get?
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 108
From: Denver, Colorado
You should replace all 3 u-joints and the center ball to prevent it from failing which can damage the tranny also.
Not sure how mechanical you are, but I have a PDF file that will walk you thru what to do, let me know if you want it.
Not sure how mechanical you are, but I have a PDF file that will walk you thru what to do, let me know if you want it.
Thread Starter
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Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
To your first question, If one of the u-joints has failed or is near failing in the double cardan end then the other one is on it's way out too so it would be false economy to not do it.
The one on the diff end is the easiest to replace.
Read through the two links in the first paragraph of the OP. They are the two most accurate write-ups I've seen and based on those you can decide if you want to tackle it.
There may be a Rover owner near you who's done it before who might be willing to guide you for pizza and beer.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I'm not clear what you're asking. Are you asking about a replacement propshaft?
To your first question, If one of the u-joints has failed or is near failing in the double cardan end then the other one is on it's way out too so it would be false economy to not do it.
The one on the diff end is the easiest to replace.
Read through the two links in the first paragraph of the OP. They are the two most accurate write-ups I've seen and based on those you can decide if you want to tackle it.
There may be a Rover owner near you who's done it before who might be willing to guide you for pizza and beer.
To your first question, If one of the u-joints has failed or is near failing in the double cardan end then the other one is on it's way out too so it would be false economy to not do it.
The one on the diff end is the easiest to replace.
Read through the two links in the first paragraph of the OP. They are the two most accurate write-ups I've seen and based on those you can decide if you want to tackle it.
There may be a Rover owner near you who's done it before who might be willing to guide you for pizza and beer.
Mudding
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 238
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, CO
1310 in stock shaft rebuild
So I've been reading a lot of the posts on various forums about this and they often list both the 1300 and 1310 as it's for rebuild. But this is also mixed in with talk of upgraded shafts. I realize the actual difference in size is in the longer diameter at the cap, but I'm not sure if the clips will still fit in the stock shaft with the longer caps. So...
Can a 1310 u joint be used to rebuild a stock 04 NA disco shaft? My assumption is no. But I'm willing to be educated if that's wrong. I'd love to go to the larger joint if possible obviously.
Can a 1310 u joint be used to rebuild a stock 04 NA disco shaft? My assumption is no. But I'm willing to be educated if that's wrong. I'd love to go to the larger joint if possible obviously.
So more info I just posted on another forum.
No way would I get u-joints at Autozone, they are made in China and I have zero comfort level with them. Autozone is using the Neapco PN and that confuses people.
If you order from Advanceutoparts.com you can get the made in the US Neapco u-joints for $12.50
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5271118-P_17_R
And the centering kit for $31.
Double Cardan CV Ball Seat Repair Kit by Neapco - Part 7-0081NG - Advance Auto Parts
So $68. Add another u-joint to do the rear, or in case you screw one up, and it's $80.50 and you get free shipping.
If you prefer Precision parts, you're stuck with paying around $25 per u-joint and around $40-$45 I think for the centering kit.
Someone reported on a forum getting Precision made house brand u-joints at O'Reilly for $13. But I stopped at one and looked at them and they are made in China. Not really Precision u-joints. O'Reilly does also sell Precision though, but they are about $25.
Of course I'm sure people wonder how Advance Auto can sell Neapco u-joints for $12.50 when they are normally $25-$35. It's because they are boxed as PDQ.
Neapco "makes" PDQ u-joints. Well, for most of them they are contracted out to China or where ever. But for the slow movers, like the 1300 series 1-0005, they just box up some of their own u-joints as PDQ, a loss leader I guess you could call it. It's the same with their 1310 series 1-0154 that has the zerk in the end cap.
I called Neapco to get this information, then confirmed it by buying examples of both the PDQ and Neapco boxed u-joints, just so you know it's not urban folklore.
So for the 1-0005 and 1-0154 you're safe using PDQ if you're cool with Neapco parts. I personally would not use any other PDQ boxed u-joint.
The reason a driveline shop charges a lot more to rebuild a propshaft is, even if they are using Neapco u-joints, they get $25-$30 each for them, and around $40-$50 for the centering kit, so you're at close to $150 for just parts. If it's a Spicer shop then they have to get the u-joints somewhere else, with whatever markup they'd put on them, since Spicer doesn't sell the 1300 series 5-4x anymore.
One thing I really hate about the Advance Auto web site though, is if you put in your vehicle information you can't get it to show the u-joints, or it gives you a warning "Will not fit your xxxxx Discovery". They are, in fact, the correct parts.
No way would I get u-joints at Autozone, they are made in China and I have zero comfort level with them. Autozone is using the Neapco PN and that confuses people.
If you order from Advanceutoparts.com you can get the made in the US Neapco u-joints for $12.50
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5271118-P_17_R
And the centering kit for $31.
Double Cardan CV Ball Seat Repair Kit by Neapco - Part 7-0081NG - Advance Auto Parts
So $68. Add another u-joint to do the rear, or in case you screw one up, and it's $80.50 and you get free shipping.
If you prefer Precision parts, you're stuck with paying around $25 per u-joint and around $40-$45 I think for the centering kit.
Someone reported on a forum getting Precision made house brand u-joints at O'Reilly for $13. But I stopped at one and looked at them and they are made in China. Not really Precision u-joints. O'Reilly does also sell Precision though, but they are about $25.
Of course I'm sure people wonder how Advance Auto can sell Neapco u-joints for $12.50 when they are normally $25-$35. It's because they are boxed as PDQ.
Neapco "makes" PDQ u-joints. Well, for most of them they are contracted out to China or where ever. But for the slow movers, like the 1300 series 1-0005, they just box up some of their own u-joints as PDQ, a loss leader I guess you could call it. It's the same with their 1310 series 1-0154 that has the zerk in the end cap.
I called Neapco to get this information, then confirmed it by buying examples of both the PDQ and Neapco boxed u-joints, just so you know it's not urban folklore.
So for the 1-0005 and 1-0154 you're safe using PDQ if you're cool with Neapco parts. I personally would not use any other PDQ boxed u-joint.
The reason a driveline shop charges a lot more to rebuild a propshaft is, even if they are using Neapco u-joints, they get $25-$30 each for them, and around $40-$50 for the centering kit, so you're at close to $150 for just parts. If it's a Spicer shop then they have to get the u-joints somewhere else, with whatever markup they'd put on them, since Spicer doesn't sell the 1300 series 5-4x anymore.
One thing I really hate about the Advance Auto web site though, is if you put in your vehicle information you can't get it to show the u-joints, or it gives you a warning "Will not fit your xxxxx Discovery". They are, in fact, the correct parts.
