I have a 1995 Range Rover LWB. The A/C, power door locks, and rear windows never worked. Not that big of a deal.
1) I only have 4hi, the lever doesnt move. 4 low would be nice to have at Paragon. Whats the easiest way to get access to the top side of the transfer case?
2) My exhause pipe cracked on the Y pipe between the O2 sensor and the mounting flange. That was the start of my problems. After that my check engine light came on a few days later. I would smell gas when starting and after checking the plugs they were soaked with gas. Flooded? Bad injectors? Poor spark? So here is what I've done:
replace the coil, plugs, wires, Y pipe, o2 sensors, cold start sensor. The distributor cap is fairly new as well as the rotor. The car still runs like crap. Not safe to drive. No power. Major stumble. It almost sounds like a giant 4 cyl car. Putt - putt- putt from the exhaust pipe. I'm still thinking something is wrong with the ignition. Is there a way to check the distributor and coil power output? How would I be able to tell if there is a "proper" spark from the plug. Nobody seems to know. They just tell me to "look" and if there is a spark it must be ok. There is also more noise from the driver side of the engine than the passenger side. The injectors and spark sounds fine from the passenger side but not so good from the driver side. I read somewhere that the main coil wire could be a problem because it runs so close to the other spark plug wires on the driver side there could be interference. Ever hear of that?
Too many problems not sure where to start. I'm sure its something simple that I'm just not seeing. Need some fresh ideas on where to look.

 

Did you replace the distributor rotor with a "aftermarket generic" one?. Some rotors out there are known to develop a direct ground path to the distributor shaft which causes intermittant misfiring. When viewing the rotor from the top, you want the one with a "Scalloped" area just outboard of where the center electrode of the distributor cap runs. Also-- cheap distributor caps are known to crack between towers, so inspect yours closely.

The next thing to check would be the fuel pressure at "key on--no engine running", at idle, and then at 2K rpm. You have to fit a pressure gage to the fuel rail to check these values.

regards,

Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com

 

I replaced plugs and wires and it runs better, actually it ran great. Let it sit for a few hours and ran it again. The check engine light came on, there was a definate stumble and a fault code #17. Is it normal that the brake servo pump keeps cycling every few minutes with key on or while at idle? I also did hear that there is a problem with the intake plenum gasket leaking and something with fuel injector issues on the '95 RR's. I never had these problems with my '93. Too bad it got totalled.

 

Just did a search for "range rover ECU fault code 17" on google - it came up with a great site top of the list.

It says error 17 is the Throttle Potentiometer and that you should "Refer to test 17, continuity test procedure. "

Don't know it that helps - but here's hoping.

Cheers,