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Testing the fuel level from the gauge?

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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 01:22 AM
  #11  
wheelgarage's Avatar
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I will definately chk the pump assembly. I stopped by West Coast British and spoke to Mike. He concured that it is the float on the assembly....."buy a new one".

Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #12  
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Okay, pulled out the pump and the float is still there. The wires were still connected. I tested the float, measuing in ohms, at the meter and at the connector at the top. Both had a signal thoughout the range.

I do need to test the cluster....where the heck in the RAVE can I find it??!?!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #13  
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But does the float float? Or does it sink to the bottom?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:06 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Spike555
But does the float float? Or does it sink to the bottom?
Good question. I really dont know. All I know is that the meter worked. The float was still on the end of the rod, so it all looked good.

It should float, but how can I tell?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 02:30 PM
  #15  
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UPDATE....(corrected)

Steps I took:

Fuel Pump level sensor
Out to gauge · Pin 1 / C434
· At pump
TO
· Pin 2 / C407
· Behind left rear tire, under frame
· Connector code (6-B) – 6 pin connector
TO
· Pin 23 / C277
· Behind fuse panel (Z5 – 33)
· Connector code (23-W) – 23 pin connector
To
· GB Green / Black Wire
Ground from pump
Both black
· Pin 2 / C434
· S415 - Splice No.
· Terminates @ E400
· Terminates @ E404


Fuel Gauge
Path to gauge circuit [E1-6]


I pulled the fuse box assy and looked for the fuel sending wire GB to the cluster. Checked the signal and read 44ohms.... Per the RAVE, when it falls below 25ohms, the low fuel light should come on, but it states 245 ohms when the fuel is low??? 19ohms is full???? WTF?

I pulled off the cluster to check the signal to the gauge, also have 44 ohms. I then plugged in the cluster and turned the ignition to on, and did notice the gauge move very slightly. From reviewing the schematic, I believe the potentiometer internal in the cluster is bad.

Going to try to pull the cluster apart...and see if the potentiometer tabs are good...
 

Last edited by wheelgarage; Aug 7, 2011 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #16  
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Fuel Gauge
Path to gauge circuit [E1-6]
· location connector C221 (pin 3)
· GB – Green / Black – Fuel gauge / low fuel common wire
Path internal gauge circuit [E1-4]
· Circuit line 15 – power to cluster components
· Circuit line 31 – to fuel warning light and gauge


Okay...the potentiometer is still attached. I can goto Radio Shack to get a new one and replace. Not sure if that is a good ideal. I am considering getting another cluster to see if I have the same results. Need to find anyone near me to test...
 

Last edited by wheelgarage; Aug 7, 2011 at 05:03 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 09:50 PM
  #17  
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In my copy of the RAVE electrical troubleshooting guide on section E1 page 5, there is a diagram of the fuel indicator system. It would appear there is some electronics processing taking place inside the cluster, because it shows a CPU and a low fuel warning and anti-slosh control. You would be able to disconnect the wire at C434 on the pump module, and attach a test pot to ground (from Radio scrap). You would also want to read what you have presently for voltage coming from the cluster. No voltage at the fuel level sender would show up as very low fuel, could just be an open wire connection. A cluster from a yard is $25 - $35, dismantlers should have more choices, and you don't have to sweat to pull it.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 10:35 PM
  #18  
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The cluster has 12.4v running to it, I cooked my finger there for a second....ouch. I was thinking to pulling out the pump and putting the meter at C221. Have someone look at the ohm measurement while I work the float...gave up on that ideal...no extra hand.

Easy way....

I found a cluster...well, not yet. Need to drive over there to get it, maybe this week. I hope it works. Time will tell...
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #19  
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Update....

After checking every single wire, harness, and connectors....I finally went back to test the meter on the pump. This time I made sure the tank was almost empty (200 miles of driving...lol). I pulled out the pump. This time, I had my daughter move the float, while I tested resistance at the connector. While moving the float though the stroke, there were brakes at all levels, except for the top at almost empty.

So, I order a new AllMakes fuel pump, olives and pipe nuts. Installed it in minutes and now I have a working fuel gauge!!!!

FINALLY!!!.....
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #20  
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or you could jack the rear up and look at the values coming out the pump itself.
 
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