upon starting,sounds like a sore throat,before a person coughs
#11
#13
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So go somewhere and get your charging system tested, you may need to get your battery charged first. Voltage should be somewhere between 13.6 and 14.4 volts.
As for all that additive, stop doing that monthly, it is a waste of time and money. A good can of 44K in the tank once a year is all you need.
As for all that additive, stop doing that monthly, it is a waste of time and money. A good can of 44K in the tank once a year is all you need.
#14
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Neighbor put new alt.in..again..my 3 rd in a month..i only drive 20 -30 miles a week here..but when the 2nd went in ,after 5 or so miles,the techometer stopped reading,which we know is alt issue...
New alternatoir as of this morn.and tach working...also got new belt put on,because old one was on incorrectly,there was a piece of old( a week old) alt. In the hood...we saw the lil metal piece..
Neighbor said his belt was on wrong for a year and worked fine...why is the alt always giving problems? Are they bad ones or is there another reason?? New battery new alt...what can be the problem??
Old Alt.read good at adv.auto???
So my ?...where else should I look for problems??
New alternatoir as of this morn.and tach working...also got new belt put on,because old one was on incorrectly,there was a piece of old( a week old) alt. In the hood...we saw the lil metal piece..
Neighbor said his belt was on wrong for a year and worked fine...why is the alt always giving problems? Are they bad ones or is there another reason?? New battery new alt...what can be the problem??
Old Alt.read good at adv.auto???
So my ?...where else should I look for problems??
#15
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Alternators that are rebuilt by high volume recycling firms are subject to the worst problem known to engineers - corporate bean counters. To hold down costs they purchase the least expensive parts, which usually come from China today. Quality control in China is not anywhere close to Japan or Tiawan or Korea. So by increasing the profit margin they force their customers to suffer. If angry customers FedEx'ed the new dead alternator to the big boss of the chain auto parts store with a big nastygram using "shop language" - maybe they would shift suppliers. But the decision makers are too isolated from the customers, so it a'int gonna happen.
Rant over. If faced with this, I suggest either buy a used one, or have original one rebuilt by a local alternator shop (usually less than $100).
Other electrical problems can include cracked fuses, fuse links, loose conections, connections that are not clean, etc. These can be battery terminas, wires and connections inside the underhood fuse box, and even large cables (ground bond) that are around starter and ones (negative battery cable) that bolt to the frame of the truck.
Rant over. If faced with this, I suggest either buy a used one, or have original one rebuilt by a local alternator shop (usually less than $100).
Other electrical problems can include cracked fuses, fuse links, loose conections, connections that are not clean, etc. These can be battery terminas, wires and connections inside the underhood fuse box, and even large cables (ground bond) that are around starter and ones (negative battery cable) that bolt to the frame of the truck.
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#17
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If the fan belt got routed wrong when alternator was replaced, that is the problem.
The original alternator is a MM made in Italy and is a good but very expensive alternator. You are better off having your own original one rebuilt by one of those little OLD shops that has been around a long time and that will do it right. The ones available at those cheap places like AA or AZ are usually off-shore rebuilders that use cheap parts that will not hold up to the high heat of your Rover Engine Bay. If you gave them your original for the core charge refu8nd, you screwed up in that respect.
Try to get an original one from a used part source on here like Will Tillery or Paul Grant (see Buzz'ssignature for their contact info). If they do not have one available, I can look at my local foreign parts recycler. They sell them pretty reasonably compared to what I have seen. Both Paul and Will are great sources for most used parts that you could ever need for a Discovery.
I only go to Advance for things like oil and spark plugs, not critical items like alternators and starters.
The original alternator is a MM made in Italy and is a good but very expensive alternator. You are better off having your own original one rebuilt by one of those little OLD shops that has been around a long time and that will do it right. The ones available at those cheap places like AA or AZ are usually off-shore rebuilders that use cheap parts that will not hold up to the high heat of your Rover Engine Bay. If you gave them your original for the core charge refu8nd, you screwed up in that respect.
Try to get an original one from a used part source on here like Will Tillery or Paul Grant (see Buzz'ssignature for their contact info). If they do not have one available, I can look at my local foreign parts recycler. They sell them pretty reasonably compared to what I have seen. Both Paul and Will are great sources for most used parts that you could ever need for a Discovery.
I only go to Advance for things like oil and spark plugs, not critical items like alternators and starters.
#18
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The old alt.was.torn to shreds!!! I drove 6 hrs in tthe pouring rain on a hwy,goimg 30mph,with no lights half the time just to get home..I had NO MONEY FOR A TOW andbdidnt get the good package w. AAA ,which i will get this week.Im learning what to do and not to do...thanks so much.When I have extra $$$ I will def.get back to u re: a newbalt,just for safe keeping..again thanks so much
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Chrisinhouston
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12-30-2008 08:53 AM