Getting into debates about oil is about the same as getting into arguments about alcohol. In the end you'll get just as drunk and the bottles will be just as empty. I have never seen an engine fail because someone did not use the exact recommended oil. Yes, grade is important with changes in ambient temperature, and change it regularly, but other than that, spending too much money for it is way too easy.

 

M1 5W30

No leaks, no burn, 135K miles. I change it every 5K (city driving, with some road trips and highway towing)

I use M1 on all my other cars too. It's good (really, really good compared to the dino crap we ran when I was a kid) and pretty much authorized for any vehicle I might own. They all take 5W30 so that's the only oil I have to stock.

I tend to hang onto vehicles for the long haul, and I've never had engine mechanical issues with M1 (ran some cars over 200K).

M1 or any synthetic will prevent sludge buildup. Bought a car from my dad, and his mechanic had been using dino oil, and the valve cover was covered in crap. After a year ot two of M1, the valve cover got real shiny again and the mileage improved by 30%.

Like others said, you can debate this all day long. To be safe, use mfg spec synthetic oil. Otherwise any reputable synthetic. You don't need extreme performance products unless you're doing extreme duty, save the cash.

If your cars are out of warranty, and you're not keeping them for very long, then cheap dino oil would work.

Oh yeah... if you're using any extended interval (much over 3K), get the good filters that are rated for that duration... defeats the purpose if your filter turns into mush. M1 makes extended interval filters for most cars. I think I use K&N for the LR2.