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Narrowing things down 2008 LR2 3.2

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Old Jul 20, 2022 | 10:22 PM
  #41  
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Default No Leaks or odd Noises

Originally Posted by LR2driver
I checked into this (my OCD wouldn't let me do otherwise). A couple tell-tale symptoms of a faulty water pump are 1) bearing noise that you can hear, and 2) coolant leakage. Do either of these apply to your situation?
I do not have any leaks or odd sounds from the vehicle.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2022 | 10:24 PM
  #42  
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Default Pre and Post Thermostat Temperatures

Originally Posted by Cm3geese
I will get an IR gun at the first of the month and tackle all of the issues we have identified.

Does anyone have an Autel AP200? THat is what I have for an analyzer.. The live mode show two temps not sure why? They are both reading the same temps not sure but it makes me think it is not circulating
Just curious if there is such a thing?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 09:06 AM
  #43  
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Best way to find a leak is just like with the A/C, use a dye.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2022 | 09:07 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Cm3geese
I will get an IR gun at the first of the month and tackle all of the issues we have identified.

Does anyone have an Autel AP200? THat is what I have for an analyzer.. The live mode show two temps not sure why? They are both reading the same temps not sure but it makes me think it is not circulating
I have one, but I'm on the road right now. I can look at Fri or Sat. Which two temp indications are you looking at?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 04:06 AM
  #45  
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Default Engine Temps Cycling

Originally Posted by merlinj79
I have one, but I'm on the road right now. I can look at Fri or Sat. Which two temp indications are you looking at?
The temps read $7E1 and the other reads $7E2 and monitoring the the temps for a two hour drive both temps match the most I have seen difference is 4 degrees.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 04:09 AM
  #46  
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Well I think I have eliminated the thermostat. I took it on a two hour drive with it on live data. The temps cycled from 194 to 204 then back to 194 or 195 back up to 204 continually with the air on?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 11:39 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Cm3geese
Well I think I have eliminated the thermostat. I took it on a two hour drive with it on live data. The temps cycled from 194 to 204 then back to 194 or 195 back up to 204 continually with the air on?
In your original post, you said it overheats at idle. What is the temp when idling hot for awhile (vehicle not moving)?
 

Last edited by LR2driver; Jul 24, 2022 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 01:19 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by LR2driver
In your original post, you said it overheats at idle. What is the temp when idling hot for awhile (vehicle not moving)?
The temps at idle just continued to increase all the way up to 250. The temp gauge starts to move at 248. This is just sitting there. I seen no cycling of temps then though.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 05:37 PM
  #49  
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Default Dug in a little more

Originally Posted by Cm3geese
The temps at idle just continued to increase all the way up to 250. The temp gauge starts to move at 248. This is just sitting there. I seen no cycling of temps then though.
I had it at Idle for 2 hrs. The thermostat cycled the first cycle from 200 then back to 195 and never cycled again. I sat at idle with the air off and the temp went from 195 up to 220. I then kicked the ac on and it heated up to 230 quickly. I could not here the cooling fan while idling at 600-700 RPM and the AC on. The AC cycled fine. When I shut off the car at 230 the cooling fan was running and continued for several minutes. I seed that the fan should kick in between 200 and 230. So I think it is a bad thermostat as it worked fine on the highway, but not parked and idling. Not sure if it is stuck open or stuck closed not that it matters. I have no leaks what so ever (water pump or anything else). So does this tag the Thermostat as I think it does?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 05:54 PM
  #50  
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You're probably not going to like this answer, but I would start by replacing the MAP sensor as Fly advised in post #24. It may not be directly related to the overheating during idling, but it’s something you can probably do yourself right now at minimal cost. Then reset the OBD codes.

At that point, after all your OBD codes have cleared, if you’re still overheating at idle then the fan and/or thermostat are the most likely culprits. At 130K miles, both are candidates for replacement anyway.

Back to the MAP sensor: In the Youtube video shown below, the guy replaces his MAP sensor during the first few minutes of the video. His Volvo has a little more working room than your LR2, but if you have a long slender arm you may be able to do the same as he did.

Additionally, I posted a few months ago on how to remove the MAP sensor once you have your hand on it:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...e2/#post816702

Video:

 
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