Hi guys, I'm working on replacing the serpentine belt on my rover...again. I replaced already, but when I fired it up it, the belt tore into the idler pulley. (My initial problem was the pulley on the belt tensioner was desinigrated and the idler pulley had a huge dig into it, as well as a snapped belt) My question being what is that pulley below the belt tensioner(the one with my finger on it)? Should it be able to spin at all? It does not spin either direction. Thanks in advance for any advice or help given! I usually have my dad to help me with mechanics, but he's not around to help anymore I am definitely not a mechanic by trade at all so any wisdom is appreciated.

 

You cannot move this pulley by hand , this pulley is connected to the crankshaft to transfer the crank movement to the other equipments. It's normal to be that hard to move .

 

Anything with grooves is almost certainly a drive/driven pulley.

Idlers and tensioners tend to run on the smooth side of the belt.

 

Thanks Hamza and Merlin!

 

The pulley is an overdrive coupling so it will move relatively easily in one direction but not the other.

This allows the belt to freewheel like a bicycle.

If you have a 3.2 then you can check the functioning of the pulley by trying to move the belt at the AC compressor. It should move like a ratchet
(i.e. once you move it it can't be moved back, but you can move it as much as you want in one direction)


For reference my Audi 2.0T has an over drive pulley on the alternator but in the application the Belt can't be moved the only part that can freewheel for my 2.0T is the internals of the Alternator. Because the 3.2 uses this pulley on the output of the READ the entire belt can be FREEWHEELED.

Go to 3:45 in the video to see the FREEWHEEL


Take care

Paul

 

I'm sorry paul is right , it should move in one direction freely, refer to min 3:30 in the video , it's the same engine.

 

Hamza89,

No worries.

Thanks for sharing the Video.

The 3.2 is an interesting engine and not the easiest one to learn on but credit to Kay for taking it on.

When the job is done and it is ready to go another 10 years it feels good.

Take care

Paul

 

Well guys after a long mail delay on the special tool for the drive pulley and sub zero temperatures, I got the Rover back together again. The belt burned straight through the idler pulley again . I went back to my OEM idler pulley and did find the bearings were shot inside of it. The next two replacements were not OEM and I think that could be the culprit. I had to install a washer behind the non OEM idler pulley so it would free spin, it would not do so without. I'm ordering a new OEM idler pulley and going back after it as soon as it arrives. As well as OEM serpentine belt and OEM belt tensioner. (The Continental belt I got was slightly wider than my OEM). Have any of you used non OEM parts and had problems? Any other ideas on what my issue could be? Also, does anyone know where to get the two torx 25 coupler bolts that attach the power steering pump to the water pump? I fear I may have come close to stripping them and want to replace them. I am discouraged, but determine to fix my Rover. I appreciate any feedback or suggestions. Thanks for your time.
Kay

 

This is one of those cars where you normally want OEM parts for any important mechanical parts, or anything which can damage other parts if it fails (ex thermostat).

OEM can usually include volvo or in some cases ford since the 3.2 engine and entire drivetrain came from volvo.

 

Kay,

Don't give up, you will figure it out.

I don't get to drive my LR2
(My Daughter took it from me, maybe I need to send her up North so that you can teach her how to maintain the LR2, LOL)

The Bolts for the Power-Steering to Water-pump coupling can be bought from Land Rover
(I haven't bought them but I have bought others) However I think it was just a M3, M4 or M5. You could substitute a normal bolt with a HEX head which is what I did for my Fuel Pressure Sending unit. Just make sure that you have the correct thread pitch.

When you put everything back together don't start the engine. Try to move the belt at the AC compressor. It should move easily in one direction.

As for the OEM vs. aftermarket. Unfortunately there are a lot of low quality parts out there any buying them is a bit foolish. And as you now know the LAND ROVER WONT SUFFER FOOLS.


Here is the information on the T25 Bolt LR003564

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/12111/59332/59705









Take care

Paul