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06 LR3 Control Arms and Tie Rods @ 57K?

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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #11  
ktm_525's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Cowtown
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Originally Posted by wheelgarage
ktm_525....

I have a slight/light knock at the steering wheel when I depart from my driveway, turning the steering wheel to the left.

In my experience, it sounds like the swaybar bushing. I that what you felt that indicated that issue for replacement?

BTW....Every time I see your forum handle, I think of my old Dukie....she was such a hooligan...

It could be...I replaced my tie-rods (inner/outer) when I could feel a slight knock/looseness in the steering wheel when driving over a rough surface. (not bad. parts were $150ish)

The sway bar was more of a loud clunk when a wheel dropped off a curb etc. The rubber shims to fix this is dirt cheap (<$5). Actually thinking back it was a clunk from the rear which the sway shims fixed. I did the front at the same time.

The clunk from the front was fixed a short time later with new sway bar drop links. (inexpensive, $60))

The A arms were replaced because of ball joint play. (pricey)

The bearings were replaced when one literally disentegrated on the highway. No loud warning etc beforehand and quite unnerving. ($275 per)

That is the problem when replacing front end bits. Once you correct one item you notice play/noise in the next item.

At 165k kms the front is quiet as a church mouse and handles/steers as tight as day 1.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #12  
stmcknig's Avatar
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From: Austin TX
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Originally Posted by ktm_525
The bearings were replaced when one literally disentegrated on the highway. No loud warning etc beforehand and quite unnerving. ($275 per)
Yes I felt stupid that I didn't notice any warning on my front bearing fail. Just pulled off the drive to go up the street for gas and major clonking from the wheel area. Gingerly brought it back home then flat bed to the mechanic who told me that they sometimes just go with no prior warning to make me feel better. When he jacked up the suspect wheel I thought he'd loosened off the wheel nuts there was that much play....
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #13  
ktm_525's Avatar
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From: Cowtown
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A quick an easy check for tie rods.

Jack up one front wheel. Sit in front of wheel and grab the trie at the 9 and 3 position. Try to shake. If play then it is your tie rods.

Grab at 6 and 12 and try to shake. If movement then your ball joints are going.

The above assumes tight bearings.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #14  
Northwind's Avatar
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From: Minneapolis, MN
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so i dropped the LR3 off at the garage for some other work and questioned him about replacing the tie rods and control arms. Basically asked how necessary this is, he told me they were not that bad and they just wanted to give me a quote should i want to replace? wtf? asked him how long i could go and he stated probably another 8-12 months before i replace. go figure.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #15  
ghengis86's Avatar
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From: Northwest Indiana
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Originally Posted by Northwind
so i dropped the LR3 off at the garage for some other work and questioned him about replacing the tie rods and control arms. Basically asked how necessary this is, he told me they were not that bad and they just wanted to give me a quote should i want to replace? wtf? asked him how long i could go and he stated probably another 8-12 months before i replace. go figure.
I would start looking for a new garage
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 10:48 PM
  #16  
ktm_525's Avatar
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From: Cowtown
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Originally Posted by Northwind
so i dropped the LR3 off at the garage for some other work and questioned him about replacing the tie rods and control arms. Basically asked how necessary this is, he told me they were not that bad and they just wanted to give me a quote should i want to replace? wtf? asked him how long i could go and he stated probably another 8-12 months before i replace. go figure.

I am confused (not uncommon). Is this the same garage as the one in your original post?
 
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