As I said, the 3 acts like a baby at times - the louder the better so to speak. Lots of lights means the computers do not know what is wrong. For the most part, what is truly wrong is very minor, and as such there is no software code for minor problems - hence the system is at a loss to explain the problem.

I understand the aversion to throwing parts at a problem however in the case of the brake light switch, the sooner the better. If it is not already defective, it will be.

Also I found that when the weather starts to get colder is when the fault messages tend to appear - first start in the morning, that sort of thing.

Before you replace the battery, put it on a trickle charger every night for at least a week, maybe even two weeks. I have a CTEK US3300 and it takes about a week to get what I would call a good battery with a normal charge up to a full charge. The new type charging system the 3 uses has what LR calls a smart regulator, but it is very dumb - it does not know how to fully charge a battery - it is more concerned about pollution controls than engine starting. No start, no pollution, that sort of thinking.

In brief, replace the brake light switch and charge the battery.
Here again is the link for replacement of the brake light switch. http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thum...php?album=5082

 

Thanks for the reply.

I don't own a trickle charger, but my Dad does. Its old, hes had it as long as I can remember. Is there a specific type of charger to use or to avoid? As finicky as these trucks are Id hate to create another problem for myself.

 

This is the unit I and others use, the CTEK US3300. It understands the battery chemistry that the Land Rover battery uses.

Older trickle chargers do not have the smarts of the new type units for the new design battery used in the Land Rover.

 

I thought I'd contribute some images to what you are describing. This is what I removed from my vehicle the other day. Same scenario as many of you are describing. This started with a dazzling array of lights on the dash followed by faults. The codes I pulled were:

U0121 ABS Module
P0504 Brake Switch A & B
U0122 List communication with vehicle dynamic control module

My battery tested fine. I cleared the codes and drove the vehicle a few days awaiting the faults to occur again. Sure enough a hard fault was thrown displaying P0504 Brake Switch A & B. I ordered up a new switch online for $22 shipped.

The pictures below will give you a good idea what is actually happening internally on the switch.

I've also published a video displaying the dash in case any of you experience this. Don't panic (although you will be in limp mode), after driving for a bit you may find the vehicle to relax and go back to normal driving conditions. Mind did both times after about 10 min behind the wheel. Statistically speaking the majority of these scenarios have relatively inexpensive remedies. It's also worth noting this was the coldest day of the year so far and the lights come on within minutes of turning the engine over.





















Also, the install is mere minutes. Video can be found here with a walkthrough

 

Those are very detailed pictures - even better than looking inside a real switch.

I note that you said the problem first appeared on a cold day - that is what I noticed as well - the first hint of what turned out to be a brake light switch problem occurred on a cooler day than say in the previous months.

I am surprised that there is even a brake light switch trouble code - I wonder if that is something new to the 2008 model year that was not on the earlier units.

 

The gift that keeps on giving. You'd think after so many years, such a simple, critical part would be perfected by now.

 

It is difficult to believe that LR does not know of the problem. As such it is also difficult to believe that they care.

It seems that perhaps sealing the low amp contacts from the arcing contacts might be a solution, but I guess selling more switches makes more sense.

 

Hello all,

I too had such problems, as clearly indicated by the attached picture. Thanks to the advice given in this thread, and others that included starting problems, I have installed a new brake light switch and new OEM brake light bulbs. It should be noted that I recently replaced BOTH of the bulbs with after market ones, although I am not sure if it made my problems worse or had no effect at all. Hopefully the new switch and OEM bulbs is the cheap fix to what could be many expensive parts.

 

After replacing the brake light switch (it did show signs of arc dust) and both brake lights, the starter problem suddenly came back after a short time. In fact the vehicle would not start at all each time I tried it for two days, then on the third day it started no problem on the first try.

I decided to ask the local mechanic shop to look at it, but unfortunately they do not yet have the software to read the codes on european makes. A load test and charging system check came back fine (as expected with a new battery). And he said he would try to rebuild the starter before replacing it.

As I am leaving the shop the dash lit up again, just the same as in the above picture, and all the fault messages came back. HDC, Parking Brake, Suspension lowered and unresponsive, Special Programs not available, and the CEL.

I drove it like normal for the day, and tried a reset when I got home, everything remained the same.

Without a code reader or the ability to check sensors etc., I don't know what to replace. It seems like I may be making a trip to a LR dealer (close to a 2,000km round trip).

 

It sounds to me like you need to replace a speed sensor. Without a code reader it is hard to determine which is faulty, however all around replacement may be cheaper than the trip you would have to take to the dealer.