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There is a company that can run the solenoids under pressure to test them. One of the youtube videos for repair of the 6hp26 talks about it. An internet search might bring them up. A picture is attached of what my old solenoids and new solenoids looked like. The solenoids may very well work fine being discolored, but if they look like this they're not long for this world. I performed the resistance testing the first time I had the valve body out and they all passed the specification. Once reinstalled, two of the solenoids did not perform correctly under driving conditions which cause a variety of problems depending which solenoid(s) is/are bad. Changing out the valve body from underneath the vehicle laying on the ground is not a fun task. Trust me, I've done it twice. I couldn't have diagnosed this myself without the GAP IId tool. Budget for that now, you're going to need it. Not only for the trans, but also for other repairs, diag, fault codes and adaptation clearing.
My comment on parting it out is from my experience. Chances are if this LR3 was driven wounded as it is, it probably didn't have an easy life or regular maintenance. You will most likely find you'll need other repairs. It is a Land Rover... not a Toyota. It's not an unreliable vehicle, but they need regular preventive maintenance. And of course, they have their quirks that are well documented in this forum. You may want to look at the rest of the vehicle's systems (what you can without driving it) to see where you are before launching into the transmission.
So yesterday I pulled the transmission apart and it actually looks surprisingly good (to me). I can see some wear on some of the clutches but the magnets in the pan were clean and nothing is broken yet. I’m currently doing research as to determining whether the steels etc are bad, so if you have any info or resources to share it would be helpful. I’m planning to send my torque converter to Eriksson’s for a rebuild (quoted me $250 if you’re curious).
One question I do have is about the bearings: do they typically need to be replaced? I know the bushing do but nothing I’ve seen has mentioned replacing the bearings. Also, I noticed a significant amount of play in the output shaft going to the transfer case. Is this abnormal/something to be worried about?
Oh and I also bought a IId tool so I should be all set for clearing adaptions and looking at solenoid voltages if I have an issue
I cant remember exactly, we changed out everything in the master rebuild kit, plus the bushings which are not included. Sonnax makes the zip kit for the valve body. My guy uses the original plungers as he says the new ones in the zip kit are aluminum and they bind with the aluminum valve body.
Any blue spots on the steel plates? The images don't indicate that there are. I don't know what the minimum thickness specs for the fiber plates are... It would be nice to know if they are in or out of spec. Probably would have been beneficial to check the solenoid voltages with the GAP before pulling the trans... Solenoid color looks acceptable though. I wouldn't replace them at this point unless you want to while the valve body is out. It depends on your tolerance for duplicate labor having to drop the valve body with the trans in situ. I think the zip kit for the valve body is a good idea. $250 sounds fair for the converter rebuild.
Mechatronics cannot be reprogrammed with GAP or the like. Unlikely it has failed.
in my experience all the transmissions are compatible.
rebuild is very difficult, I would say the most complicated of all the repairs you will do on an LR3. The rebuild kits come with an improved clutch pack on one of the gear sets which will leave you scratching your head as you are not using the same amount of clutches. I would not endevour on another rebuild even though I had a seasoned tech walk me through it. One special press is needed for compacting the spring plates.
Okay, I hit the point where i'm scratching my head about the D-clutch. The clutch I pulled out has 6 friction discs, 6 steel plates the same thickness, 1 thicker steel plate, and 1 spring plate. The factory steel kit comes with two sets of D steels. One contains a 1 thick steel and 8 thinner steels all the same thickness. The other set contains a variety of steel plates of different thicknesses. The problem is the thick plate in the first set is thicker than the one I removed. Any idea which are the correct steels? I'm going to call my supplier tomorrow if I can't figure this out to see what they say.
I've gotten almost all the parts in. Last night I installed the bushings but had a problem with the bushing on the inside end of the output shaft. The youtube video I was following for the procedure did not cover replacing this bushing, but I figured I might as well since I'm in here. Once I got the bushing out I found that there was a bur on the lip all the way around, preventing the insertion of a new bearing. I don't know if this is by design or if one of the shafts caused the bur, but it had to go in order to replacing the bushing. I brought the output shaft to work today and took the bur off on the lathe and installed the bushing.
I cleaned the housing with brake cleaner and have begun reassembly. I have gotten the rear seal, the output shaft, and the planet carrier in.
I got the C-clutch together. Interesting note on this is that the steel set came with 1 extra steel for this clutch.
When I took the oil pump apart it had pieces of clutch disc in it. Not a lot but enough to be of concern. The bore still looks fine but the bearing has a piece of clutch disc stuck in it so I will be replacing it.
I do not have the tools to take apart the spring plates, so I guess their internal o-rings are just going to have to last longer.
Last edited by kenneypj1; 09-13-2018 at 10:14 PM.
Reason: add details about bearing
08-25-2018 | 12:58 AM
