Not to get into the chicken or the egg debate... but... I would bet the heat spots and clutch plate damage (also likely from heat) are from the transmission not having sufficient fluid to operate correctly in the first place. Think of a driver learning to drive a manual transmission car. They slip the clutch and rev the engine up to keep it from stalling. This creates a tremendous amount of heat. You've probably seen pressure plates with heat spots in them and the clutch disc worn out or burned up. It's basically the same thing except you're using fluid and a pump vs your leg to set the plate(s) into lockup to move the vehicle. Who knows how the previous owner treated the transmission when it started slipping, just mash the gas and see if it goes... or just drove it until it wouldn't move anymore? I could see this causing the damage you described, especially with the weight of these LR3's. I wouldn't think this is normal wear for a trans with only 144k
So, in your case, the rebuild may have been required from the abuse of low fluid and possibly faulty solenoids. I guess my point of this reply is that just because these transmissions are not working correctly, it doesn't mean a full rebuild is required. This may have been true many years ago when transmissions were shifted by vacuum solenoids, etc, but with computers and electronic valves controlling modern "sealed for life" (yeah, right) transmissions there are many more things to consider while diagnosing issues.

 

I agree that the clutch wear and heat spots are probably from abuse with low fluid. I think the fluid got low, the person kept driving, the clutches burned and shredded and some of those pieces clogged the valve. Bottom line is make sure you have enough transmission fluid. It would be worth starting by just replacing the solenoids and rebuilding the valve body except that if that doesnt work you may have to do it again due to new junk being introduced into it during testing.

The transmission took just over 1 more quart of fluid. I took the LR3 out for a drive and it seems to be working well! Does shift at odd times (nothing crazy) but I think that may be part of the adaption process. I also need to replace the pan gasket and drain plug as I have a small leak. Probably from repeated removal and re-assembly. I will post all the parts I used along with pricing at some point. Total cost is probably around $1600 including the 16qts of Mercons SP and 3qts of Penosil ATF1 fluid I have purchased

Next up is fixing the emergency brake: took off the passenger side disc and it's just gone. Like cable cut and hardware/shoes missing.

 

That's great news. The adaptation can take up to a few hundred mile to sort out. Watch your solenoid amperages to make sure they are functioning correctly. There was/is a trans software update you could try if things don't straighten out.

The parking brake... is the cable housing still attached with the nut to the backing plate? That's an ugly job to swap out that parking motor and cables assembly. Not nearly as involved as a trans rebuild for sure, so maybe it'll seem like a breeze. Wiggling the box out of the chassis and the cable routing is a PITA. I've got a couple good complete assemblies if that's what it comes down to. No brakes shoes or small hardware tho...

 

 

After losing my key and finally getting a replacement I just need to put the final touches on the transmission, i.e. replace the pan gasket and drain plug to eliminate leaks. I will let you all know if I have any more problems with this transmission.

E-brake: I replaced the hardware and pads on both sides, and the cable on the passenger side. I was able to do it without removing the whole assembly, which I am thankful for. After replacing the pads and hardware the brake still would not try to function. I was getting an error that the switch was in an undefined position, so I took the switch apart pressed down on the little rubber contacts inside and the parking brake engaged! Put it back together and now I have a working epb!

Now to fix the washer fluid leak, get it inspected, replace the diff and transfer case fluids, replace the coolant, and maybe fix the sunroof (it does not operate when I press the switch. I can get it to go through one full cycle with the reset procedure but it will not function normally.)

 

I am using a Ford Raptor oil pan and filter along with a Fel-pro gasket. After replacing the gasket a second time i'm still getting fluid coming out. Ive looked closely and it appears to be coming only out of the pan gasket. The fel-pro gasket is an aluminum one while the one that came with the ZF rebuild kit is a more traditional gasket material. Anyone have any input on what gasket they have successfully used with their metal oil pan?

 

 

Hmm, maybe I have a scratch on the mating surface. It is possible I damaged the gasket as I was in a bit of a rush, but this is the second one leaking from the same area so I'm thinking it has to do with the pan or casing and not the gasket. Good to hear you are using the Fel-pro successfully!

 

Ford BL3Z7A191C. Had the pan off twice and reseals just fine. Aluminum with rubber beads on both sides. $14.00 on Rockauto.