Notes: The Cruise ECU, part NNW501922 or NNW501923, are not cheap in the US as mentioned above. On eBay UK there is an oddity, part NNW501922 will result in sellers asking a higher price for adaptive cruise ECUs. But a search for NNW501923 will bring up results where sellers think they are airbag modules and thus selling cheaper. I presume from a bad listing that people are just repeating as a template. On the Disco thread one person specifically mentions the NNW501923 as working in a 2006. As such I managed to get the ECU for $15 USD, shipping costs more for a total of $45 shipped. Not bad! And to think I made an offer on a US source for $70 which seemed like a steal - made sure to retract that. UPDATE: Well this is annoying, just minutes after buying that one and posting this I found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/160834633455 Looks like someone familiar with this work is selling NEW modules for just $28 shipped in the US. Not a huge deal, but new would have ben better than used. Not to mention a little cheaper. This is what I hate about eBay. Because the seller is away their auctions do not show in searches. I found the eBay sale via a Google search instead, pretty much by accident.

Also as mentioned the dash switch may not be needed. If you want it, you may have to get creative. Most, if not all, NA hazard switch panels have just four physical switches and the plastic surround matches that with no blank spots. The issue is while you can source the switches for cheap from the UK, new boards are less than $15, if you look around they will have square edges and thus not fit the LR3 dash. You need round corners. I managed to find a peculiar variant that in theory should not exist since the round corner panel is for a D3, which never had adaptive. It is also in the darker plastic so it would be from a later year. But it will do the job for me. But you may end up having to buy two. Both a switch array and a second one with six or so switch openings. Then swap thins around to fit. I mention all this because if you are not paying attention to the corners of the hazards arrays you may be expecting a part that will direct fit when it will not.

Correct looking part below. Although in this case I think the plastic around the switches will be darker than what I have as later LR3s came with darker plastics, not mine. Will see what it looks like when it arrives in a couple weeks.


And here is an example of one with the correct switches, but note the corners. So it will not fit because the main center dash "shroud" has rounded inner corners.

 

Even with international shipping that ECU is a good buy, i saw new switch panels on ebay for about 15GBP.

 

Yeah, I grabbed a switch panel for cheap. Again shipping sucked as it came to over $40 USD once shipping was applied. I almost bought the set linked below, twice the price but both sides. Again the darker plastic but also the chrome horn bars. So an upgrade in looks. But trying to keep this project from cost creeping too much. So far the only hang up is the ECU connector. I need to figure that out. Also a mounting location since I have to make an entire harness. Mounting in the engine bay would be by far the easiest since I can tap into the ABS harness. Then only couple wires have to get inside. But I already have a huge number of wires ran so not sure if I even have room for more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134832353460

Shipping times are in weeks, about three. How about you?

 

I've had parts arrive in 2 1/2 days to 1 week, best was from Advanced Factors 2 1/2 days door to door which is quicker than interstate.

 

DYI, the Ford Part number for the ACC ECU connector internal is 4R8T-14489-AA. This is not the complete unit as the shell and locking mechanism are separate parts, which I have not determined yet. But if you can acquire this, the pins are an exact fit to the computer module. With that said, it does appear that the Discovery II in fact uses the same connector for the SRS airbag module. So your best bet for a complete connector is to source one from a junkyard. I can not guarantee it will lock in properly but I think it will. At the very least the connector can be taken apart to get the the pin assembly and that can be used for a better snug connection.

Below is ford part and on right is Disco II airbag module connector. Last pic is connector with all the bits.

 

New computer and Disco II SRS module pigtail arrived, can confirm exact fit. Will have to take apart the pigtail and see what wires go where, but this will make things easier.

 

Love this thread guys. Looking forward to hacking these upgrades onto an LR3 myself someday

 

So my radar sensor stopped working a few days ago during heavy rain. I just removed it and found that the adjustment screw plate screws had corroded and corrosion had pushed the plate away from the housing and removing the plate (the 4 screws were pretty much toast, I needed vice grips and 2 broke in half on removal) revealed significant corrosion. The faceplate looked ok and the plug connector housing as well, so for now I'm drying it out and will see if that brings things back to life but I've got a replacement on order.

I suspect that the gap allowing for water ingress was present when I installed it, and so I would recommend going over all the seams of a radar unit and perhaps putting a preventative layer of silicone. I have the adjustment housing cover removed and if drying out the unit fixes it, my plan is to leave the cover off and just seal the entire area (it's like 1 square inch) with silicone.

 

Bummer!! I have read in a few places that the radar modules are prone to failure from water ingress. Which is why I wont order one until I have all my other parts installed. Because *most* sellers have some sorta warranty or policy against DOA. So if I order one now, it could be on the shelf a while and exceed that time window. At least new ones can be found for less than $100.

Question, which version of that module do you have? I ask because the -BC variants seem much more common than the -AA. I am wondering if the -BC modules will work with the -AA ECU properly. Also being a -BC, I wonder if they improved the water tightness.

 

New radar module arrived and system immediately started working again upon the swap; water must have killed the first module. This replacement looks to be in better external condition but I may 3d print a cover to protect against weather.