Nice! Excited for ya, it is a pretty neat system and certainly a unique upgrade. I need to look into what other modules can be "stolen" from the Range Rover/Sport chassis and brought over to the LR3. Again, it has to be CAN bus compatible. But sometime like the ability to have all the windows close when holding the lock button on the remote would be cool. I assume that would be a body control module swap, but have not looked into it and maybe it would not even work.

Looking forward to your update on getting it working.

 

I got a friend to print the radar mount (thank you for making the STL available!) and am still waiting for the alert/button bars to arrive. I say bars because the one I have currently in the vehicle has 2 buttons on each side of the emergency blinkers. Left side is missing TPMS having only the DSC and the parking sensors buttons while the right side has only unlock/lock and is the missing ACC.

So I ordered YUL5000330WUX (D3) and YUL500970WUX (RRS) with the intent to replace the fascia on the latter from the former which I understood would be possible.

The RRS part has the TPMS button, a system that I do not have on my HSE. There do not seem to be very many TPMS retrofits nor does there seem to have been much discussion whether it is useful. Any ideas on that? My assumption is that the car will be happy even if I don’t have TPMS and I’ll just have an extra button that does nothing.

Also, someone posted that the MY05 would have connectors for the ACC in its cabin and behind the front bumper but I haven’t peeked there yet. If they don’t exist I guess I’ll locate it in the half empty box with the brake system within the engine compartment as someone has done on the UK forum. Where did you guys mount your ACC ECU?

 

I would have thought that the later models would be more likely to have the wiring in place but yet to check mine, otherwise will likely fit the ECU in the factory RRS location since i have a battery in the battery box.
The dash switch panel i got has the forward alert button but missing the parking sensor button , i''ll swap the fascia over as mine is black and the RRS one is grey and cut the opening for the extra button.

 

I took apart my old dash switch panel and it appears that these are just a resistor-based switch setup, allowing one signal wire to carry all of the button status results from the entire panel, for example, 1000 ohm for switch A when it's on, 100 ohm for B, 10 ohm for C, and 1 ohm for D (I'm just making the values up for demonstration purposes). So a total resistance of 1,010 ohms would indicate switches A and C were on but B and D were off. So... assuming your software is not looking for a TPMS value, I'm guessing it would ignore a TPMS "off" and probably also an "on" setting.

 

The button sets only need to match your style. If you have a stock LR3 with base trim (one huge gray center shroud) then you want the switch panel with rounded corners. If you have premium with wood grain or piano finish then you need the squared off- switch panel set. Mine had two switches on each side of the hazard, now I have three switches on each side. The collision switch and a TPMS switch, which does nothing since I removed TPMS from the CCF (no longer have sensors in the wheels).

And yes, good odds your 05 has all the wiring in place. My 06 did not and later models certainly do not. Adaptive cruise was just one of many ideas planned for the LR3 that never made it into full production.

 

Swapping fascias was easy, nothing to it.

I also tested that neither the TPMS or ACC button does anything by default. They’re just buttons. There aren’t any codes, visual warnings, beeps, or “magic” happening if one presses them.

How does one remove the driver’s side wall carpet? I guess by removing the door list and door seal but what else? I thought to look next for the mythical yellow connector there.

 

Question - have any of you noticed that cruise control in general is different? Classic cruise control always had a lot of complaints on the forums, very "doggy". Meaning that lets say you come up on a hill and suddenly you drop 8mph. It seems to be annoying at times for myself and other comments I found over the years. But with the adaptive, it seems to be more responsive and maintain set speed A LOT better.

 

My 'regular' cruise control was not working before (the old clock spring was on its way out) and so I cannot compare but I find that the adaptive does a good job of regulating the speed. I use it every time I'm on the highway now for any length of time. For me it's one of the top 'driver experience improvement' mods I've made, and I'd rank them probably in this order: 1. backup camera integrated into the NAV screen, 2. adaptive cruise, 3. rear OEM locker, 4. OEM NAV (with 4x4 info screen) install. I have a lot more mods than these so #3 and #4 still rank high , it's just that it's not every day where I need the rear locker but I do use the camera every day and the adaptive cruise every week.

 

Bringing this thread back, I just made one further modification to improve usability of the adaptive cruise feature. In both the Jaguar and Land Rover implementations of radar-based adaptive cruise, once in awhile the control module will see data inputs that it cannot reconcile and its solution is to take adaptive cruise offline. When this occurs -- and it's not frequent, maybe one trip in ten -- ACC will only come back when the car is restarted.

My modification was to take the ignition + and battery + supply lines to each of the radar module and and the control unit and route them through normally-powered on relays. Now, when ACC drops out, I shut off the relays, wait a few seconds, and then power back on. Within seconds the module resets, and ACC and forward alert are restored.

 

I had one hard fault like that. But as much as I have used the system, it was that only time. I assume that since I am getting a few com faults from the module that my high speed can connection is not good, I need to solder them. Could be wrong. But if my com faults clear, that would be nice. No actual fault generated when it went off line, it just said it the radar was blocked and it never reactivated until after a restart.

Edit 2 days later:

Went on a long trip and had the "blocked radar" fault again. You can not clear it from the cluster. This time I ran codes before shutting it off and indeed there was a code, C1A67-97 (A7) - Forward looking sensor - Component failure - component or system operation obstructed or blocked. I attempted to clear the fault, but it would not clear. A refresh brought it back even after shutdown and key cycle. However, after the normal two minute shutdown time the codes was no longer there. So it must self-clear, which is why I saw no code last time.