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Advice for those of you changing springs on your coilover

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Old Aug 17, 2019 | 11:18 PM
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Mudding
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Default Advice for those of you changing springs on your coilover

I ordered 2' lift springs from Lucky 8 this week and they arrived very quickly, so I went about putting them in today without knowing what I was doing. I figure a bit of a write up wouldn't hurt others embarking on this do it yourself task.

I'll first go over the tools required and the corresponding uses
Non essential:
Anti Seize to put on the threads when you are putting the nuts back on, both for the assembly and the lug nuts
Steel brush to clean off any rust
Black rustoleum or something similar to coat the springs/assembly if you scratch them
Cardboard box to catch any falling oil, paint or loose screws and nuts.
Essential:
Air Impact wrench
Spring Compressor
22mm Socket for Lugs
24 and 22mm Socket for bottom nut and bolt holding spring assembly in place
15mm ratchet for 3 nuts on the top of the spring assembly
2 Six inch extensions and a 15mm socket to better reach the top nuts closer to the engine on the spring assembly, just for the front end
At least one jack and jack stand
Philips head screwdriver (obviously)

I started with the front driver side by jacking the truck up, removing the tire, and the three top nuts on the spring assembly with the 15mm ratchet. I had to use a hammer to break them loose, but after that it wasn't much trouble. To better reach the far nut you should take off the heat shield that's about at the level of the spark plugs (on a V6) then you can get it with one extension and a 15mm socket. Then remove the bottom nut and bolt with the 24 and 22mm sockets, impact wrench, and ratchet to hold the nut in place. No need to compress the spring while its on the truck, there's not really any tension and as soon as you hammer the bottom bolt the coil and shock will slide down and you'll be able to easily lift the thing out. There is one nut in the center, remove that only when the spring is compressed otherwise you are risking serious injury or death.

Take note of the location of the three threads on top. One is further away from the other two, on the front it MUST be perpendicular to the hole on the bottom for the assembly to fit back into the truck properly and you likely can NOT twist it with whatever is laying around in the garage, I learned this the hard way.

After that just compress the spring, remove, replace with front spring, compress new spring, get the ends in the pockets and align the threads for the three top bolts with the furthest one perpendicular to the hole for the bottom nut and bolt. The center nut is a b**** to get on depending on the set up you have, I had to compress my new springs dangerously tight to reveal the threads. Once you have enough thread for the nut and washer, tighten it as much as possible by hand, then maybe bump it with the air impact. Do not overtighten it as it can screw up the alignment of the threads for the other nuts.

Then just put it all back together. The passenger side is about the same. The rear is a bit easier as you have a little more room to work with on top and you shouldn't have to compress the springs as much. It's pretty much the same process although the alignment of the top three nuts is different. The nut that is further away from the other two must be parallel to the hole for the bottom bolt and nut. You also may need another set of hands and a piece of pipe or something so you can jimmy things around to fit the bottom bolt back in. There will be a little tension when you take off this assembly but not enough I think to warrant compressing the spring while on the vehicle.

I hope this saves somebody sometime and helps out a bit! I am very satisfied with the lift I got out of the springs. Tomorrow I'm set up for an alignment and some big new tires.
 
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