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Ok . First day with my new Dongle. IIDTool BT edition, since the IIDTool has been discontinued and only the BT version was available.
Here is what I found.. Hopefully this information will give you all enough now to send me in the right direction. I have been digging on my own and wondering if something is plugged up in the air system from the desiccant when one of the rear air springs blew out ? What and where is this gallery they speak of ?
Last edited by Brian Raddick; Jun 16, 2020 at 05:37 PM.
Reason: Further thoughts
Some of this is knowledge re-cap, but the suspension system has three valve blocks. Front, center and rear. The front and center are the same and control air flow to each side individually. The center valve block is open to the front and rear blocks and contains just one valve which opens/closes to the reservoir. Also in the center block is pressure sensor. The pressure sensor does NOT rear reservoir pressure, its simply reading the pressure in the lines between the front and rear blocks but ALSO pressure going back and into the compressor. So all that is known as the "gallery".
The gallery does not hold pressure well, it never will. In fact when you hear the compressor "puff" after an operation its venting the gallery out so the compressor has less air pressure to fight when it starts up. This is also why the compressor will fire up yet there is a slight (1 second or so) delay in front/rear valve blocks opening. Needs to build up some pressure first in the gallery.
The error you have is "plausible", meaning that there is no actual fault it can detect directly, just that the pressure is dropping slower than it should in a healthy system. Basically the computer knows there should be a curve to the pressure drop and its not close enough to that curve. Or not venting at all.
So you have an obstruction or an exhaust valve that is sticking, stuck.
Some of this is knowledge re-cap, but the suspension system has three valve blocks. Front, center and rear. The front and center are the same and control air flow to each side individually. The center valve block is open to the front and rear blocks and contains just one valve which opens/closes to the reservoir. Also in the center block is pressure sensor. The pressure sensor does NOT rear reservoir pressure, its simply reading the pressure in the lines between the front and rear blocks but ALSO pressure going back and into the compressor. So all that is known as the "gallery".
The gallery does not hold pressure well, it never will. In fact when you hear the compressor "puff" after an operation its venting the gallery out so the compressor has less air pressure to fight when it starts up. This is also why the compressor will fire up yet there is a slight (1 second or so) delay in front/rear valve blocks opening. Needs to build up some pressure first in the gallery.
The error you have is "plausible", meaning that there is no actual fault it can detect directly, just that the pressure is dropping slower than it should in a healthy system. Basically the computer knows there should be a curve to the pressure drop and its not close enough to that curve. Or not venting at all.
So you have an obstruction or an exhaust valve that is sticking, stuck.
Thank you sir, I appear to have quite the task at hand now to find this blockage in the system. A real challenge with my broken back and bad neck. Looks like I will have to find a good friend willing to help with this , who doesn't mind laying on his back under the beast and working with his arms over head.
Thanks for all your input and when or if I ever get this working right, I will be back to buy you all a beer !!!
So good in fact, I bought it twice! ...Just upgraded from EASControl to full IIDtool BT. sold the old EASControl on ebay in 1 day. Agreed its a great value!
Odds are your blockage is at the compressor some place. Most likely the exhaust system. If the compressor has NEVER been removed, I highly recommend cutting the exhaust line and maybe even the intake line. They are the two larger black lines at the aft end. One normally pushes in the line slightly while also pushing in the collet. Once pressed inward all the way (about 1mm) you keep the collect pressed in while pulling on the line. It should come out. But they can get melted in place. So instead of destroying things its often best to cut them in a location with enough room to put a push-connect coupler. Then you can just use the coupler to reinstall and makes future removal easier.
Odds are your blockage is at the compressor some place. Most likely the exhaust system. If the compressor has NEVER been removed, I highly recommend cutting the exhaust line and maybe even the intake line. They are the two larger black lines at the aft end. One normally pushes in the line slightly while also pushing in the collet. Once pressed inward all the way (about 1mm) you keep the collect pressed in while pulling on the line. It should come out. But they can get melted in place. So instead of destroying things its often best to cut them in a location with enough room to put a push-connect coupler. Then you can just use the coupler to reinstall and makes future removal easier.
Earlier in my posting I said the compressor was replaced with a new Hitachi style compressor. This non venting issue was evident then. On the off chance it was s defective new compressor, I ordered another one and replaced it a second time. Sent the first one back for a warranty claim. So unless I have 2 defective compressors.. I'm now guessing the problem is elsewhere. The solenoid on the compressor can be heard clicking and the solenoid on the valve body between the compressor and air tank can be heard clicking. I have a friend coming over next week and we are going to take things apart 1 piece at a time starting at the compressor and begin a process of elimination. Very tedious, I know.. but I'm beginning to think the only way.
Make sure there are no blockages in the exhaust tubing. (I know too simple) when the exhaust tube is removed from the compressor, make sure air can move freely through ot.
Was thinking today, make sure when lowering that the front and rear go at about the same rate. If one half seems much slower it could be the valve block that is faulty (failing solenoid). Also I forget if you did any valve block work, but the front and rear valve blocks look identical but are not. They should always be installed in their proper location. The tech manual actually had to spell that out cause people would, for example, use a front valve block in the rear.
Was thinking today, make sure when lowering that the front and rear go at about the same rate. If one half seems much slower it could be the valve block that is faulty (failing solenoid). Also I forget if you did any valve block work, but the front and rear valve blocks look identical but are not. They should always be installed in their proper location. The tech manual actually had to spell that out cause people would, for example, use a front valve block in the rear.
I have not yet touched any of the 3 valve blocks. The one and only time the vehicle lifted, I can't recall which lifted first, front or back, left or right, I was inside and unprepared to take note.
Plan is to first figure out which is intake air breather and which is exhaust line and make sure both are clear.
Then the plan is to temporarily leave both disconnected and try it.
If no luck, the lines to and from the tank and valve block between the tank and compressor will be inspected and valves, verified as functioning properly. From there, we will venture towards front and rear valve blocks. At least that is the plan when I can get back at it. Thursday or Friday evening,
I have been digging on my own and wondering if something is plugged up in the air system from the desiccant when one of the rear air springs blew out ? What and where is this gallery they speak of ? 
