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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 03:48 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Matthew Lord
I had the top one. Rebuilt the compressor and how it's gone. But now I have other problems... I'd say that while you're getting the pressure release when pumping or raising/lowering you're getting a stuck exhaust solenoid on the compressor and possibly the compressor is caked with desiccant powder.
My compressor is new, solenoid is not sticking or it would not be exhausting... at least in my opinion.

I also have new rear air springs and a new reservoir dampening valve. It maintains normal height, exhausts before and after running the compressor. I still have to calibrate, but I hear the air system needs to be in proper working condition.

Someone said I can do calibration with a floor jack... but I'm trying to figure out how to do that if the air system needs to adjust during calibration.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 05:53 PM
  #92  
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When you clear the faults do they come right back instantly? If not (I know mine didn't always come right back) you might be able to calibrate while there is no fault. I have calibrated with the Gap tool a few times now successfully. I'm no expert so certainly don't take what I say with too much seriousness, but have you tried basically unplugging it and plugging it back in? Like a router.... hahaha. Pulling the battery and letting it sit for a day might help. I'm not sure why I'm suggesting that other than I feel like I've heard others suggest it to clear out weirdness. Anyhow good luck. Cheers.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 09:14 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Matthew Lord
When you clear the faults do they come right back instantly? If not (I know mine didn't always come right back) you might be able to calibrate while there is no fault. I have calibrated with the Gap tool a few times now successfully. I'm no expert so certainly don't take what I say with too much seriousness, but have you tried basically unplugging it and plugging it back in? Like a router.... hahaha. Pulling the battery and letting it sit for a day might help. I'm not sure why I'm suggesting that other than I feel like I've heard others suggest it to clear out weirdness. Anyhow good luck. Cheers.
I have cleared the faults and it all stays clear until I hit the raise / lower switch or begin to drive. . The battery has also been disconnected for a hard reset. Really has me baffled because things appear to work, but will not operate as they should. Special features for the suspension do not work when that light is on so I can only assume it is sitting in the normal height mode.
Since faults relate to gallery pressure and venting valve, maybe I will try deflating zones and see what happens. ....
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 09:20 PM
  #94  
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So there is NO icon lit or fault at any speed, until the switch is pressed? Bad switch?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 09:24 PM
  #95  
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I guess I'm not sure why you wouldn't just calibrate the EAS as Step 1 regardless.

 
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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 12:12 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
So there is NO icon lit or fault at any speed, until the switch is pressed? Bad switch?
The fault comes on shortly after moving the vehicle, no need to touch the switch. Fault comes on by either flipping the switch or driving,
 
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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 12:21 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
I guess I'm not sure why you wouldn't just calibrate the EAS as Step 1 regardless.
I have not had a chance to actually try calibrating yet, Maybe I am over complicating the process in my head , Afraid to screw up the calibration worse than it is because it's something I never done before. I'm waiting for a hand from a friend that may have a better understanding of it to help me with it. Unfortunately, I have to wait til he is freed up to lend a hand. At the mercy of his scheduling.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 02:07 AM
  #98  
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If you screw it up you just select "Restore Original" settings and you're back.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 06:13 AM
  #99  
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Well that's good to know,,, I was afraid I would be changing calibration and losing the original settings.
That may help to simplify things for me. Thanx.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 07:09 AM
  #100  
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Agreed run calibration - I ran guided calibration at-least 6 times sorting mine out. I was getting the same two messages as above from my new compressor. This 1st replacement compressor was doing plenty odd things that I thought might be bad center valve block. It would make an electrical hum for 3-5minutes after turning off the truck. Would not allow me to lower the rear struts (only up). Compressor was not allowed to start due to galley pressure too high. Once the front was sunk and rear way up in the air, so used the floor jack trick to level and run calibration. My initial replacement compressor had a faulty exhaust valve (or maybe bad 6pin connector). I returned the $200 amazon compressor and bought the $400 HD compressor from Lucky8 and that worked like a charm.


Top is 5 year old Hitachi compressor. Bottom is Dunlop HD compressor. Bigger heat sink is most noticeable exterior change
 
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