Def not overpriced, the GAP tool does a lot. Take the vehicle in the dealer instead and you would be into things for thousands of monetary units.

 

I understand it will be less costly to buy one than relying on the dealer... I may have to break down and get one. I have put out feelers to see if I may be able to pick one up second hand from someone if they no longer have their vehicle, but still have the code tool.
Going to have to slow down my rush on moving forward with repairs and just move along as funds allow. There is no rust on the car except on the front brakes... I can't stop now. If anyone knows where I can get a used code reader tool.... I'd be very interested.
Regards.

 

Basically, you need to find out where you are losing the air in your suspension system, it involves using a spray bottle of soapy water and safely getting under the vehicle, then spraying the air parts while the compressor is running, unless you have something really crazy going on with your vehicle, it should not be very complex. A description is attached for your perusal...

 

I agree totally and Checking for air leaks can be done with my eyes shut. Thing is, with the Suspension fault, I can not get the compressor to run at all to put air in the back where the leak is. As long as the front is up, the compressor will not start with that fault. I would need to release all air from the front and the reservoir before I can run the compressor again. I would have thought, it would automatically air up the back if it got low. Not happening. I just have to get a code reader that will read the air suspension codes. One that I can use to dump all air and lower the front and start from scratch without removing an air line every time.

 

Front hight has noting to do with the fault, unless its so insanely high its past the range of the height sensors. Mechanically thats not possible unless there are height rods attached to the sensors.

 

No , The front height was good and normal. but the back dropped and would not reinflate. In order to clear the fault, I have to let the air out of the entire system and set the front right down again, then I can get the compressor to run.

 

That is the part I'm not understanding, why do you have to let the air out of the front to get the compressor to start? That is not what the system is designed to do, there is something else wrong here, unfortunately I'm no ace with this stuff, I had my front dropping (both sides) and it was the front valve block (replaced), but the compressor would always start and pump it up, even though the rear was up all the time.

EDIT: 2334; I re-read the whole post plus the error code printouts and I am starting to think your basic problem is an electrical gremlin, you have so many fault codes that it is hard to believe your machine could even run properly. These can be very difficult to solve without a good code reader, but you may be able to reset everything with just a basic inexpensive OBDII code reader that you could borrow from a friend or maybe rent at Part Source. I do have a "cheapy" but it seems it was only good for clearing engine codes, so also have the GAP one, which lets you get into all the LR3 specific menus. I know from my own personal experience with the air suspension that air is stored in the reservoir and if there is a leak, as soon as you start the vehicle then the compressor will start up, refilling the reservoir and the suspension system. If that is not happening, then the air suspension control components will have to be checked to see if they are operating correctly, and it is pretty evident that in your case, something is not right. When you shut the vehicle off, all the solenoid valves release in the closed position and air is retained in each individual circuit except for several hours after shutdown there is an equalization circuit that tries to self level the vehicle for 3 or 4 hours, then it drops out also. In my case, the front valve had a slow leak and after a week or so both sides at the front would be dropped down to the stops, so replacing the valve solved my problem. Your problem sounds similar except it's at the rear and your compressor won't start, even though it sounds like it should, because the reservoir should be low, and that's where I think the circuit that detects pressure difference initiates the compressor start signal. Of course, the vehicle has the engine running and all doors closed for this process to happen, the compressor won't operate and the solenoid valves won't open without engine running and all doors closed. I'm a bit stumped also, will look at a wiring diagram tomorrow...
EDIT: 0430; Looked at wiring diagram and nothing obvious although of course many modules talk to each other over the CAN busses, you can force the pump to operate via a jumper at the fuse box in the engine compartment but that won't operate the valve body solenoids and you can't operate for more than several seconds or you'll damage components. Quite a mystery...

 

Read the posts at https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/red-s...essor+starting , you can ignore the German language part, but he does give you a process for trying to raise the vehicle...

Ign. on - engine off
ign. off
toggle raise vehicle once
toggle loewr once
Ign. on - engine off
ign. ON - ENGINE ON
toggle raise twice
toggle lower twice
toggle raise.

Looks like that site didn't get the translation quite correct, bolded above should work if this works at all... He also mentions jacking the car up a bit to change the position of those height sensors...

 

I thank you and everyone for thoughts, ideas, suggestions and information. I will try this, and failing this, I will have to just break down and get a llD BT tool since it seems the IID tool has been discontinued. Ordered the brake switch and will replace that when it comes in. I have an OBD code reader which only does engine codes and there is a code on cold engine start and at idle it gallops up and down. Have yet to investigate that further, but it does run nice except for that. This suspension issue is what I have to concentrate on. I'll be back after I get my IID tool.
thank you for all your input.

 

Well, one last kick at the problem and discovered 3 YouTube videos starting with this regarding how to test the pump, valve body solenoid and compressor relay in the engine compartment (without destroying the ECU). This fellow seems a bit rough at first, but his logic at diagnosing the problem and his demonstrations are right on the money. I see that you are waiting for an IIDTool, mine was about $700 CDN and after programming 2 more keys it paid for itself, then after diagnosing my air suspension problem and a O2 sensor I'd have to say it is the best investment an LR3 owner could make. Just thank your lucky stars you don't own a used Lincoln Navigator...

Good luck and please keep us all informed, all solutions contribute to everyone's LR3 health!