Oh that little button...it only resets the trip odo there for me as well. I'll look in my manual, as I would like to reset my MPG as well.

 

(TEST BATTERY AND CHARGE SYSTEM: VOLTAGE DROPS BELOW 11V RANDOMLY ON LOAD. POSSIBLE BAD VOLTAGE REGULATOR OR FAULTY DIODE. LOAD TEST BATTERY "OK") That is what the shop said about it. They also said that if the battery light came on right away, then the battery wasn't the problem in the first place. Even if the battery was bad, it would have taken a little bit for the alternator to be strained enough to have the diodes overload, but not immediately. But, since I'm not sure how old the last battery was, it wasn't exactly a wasted investment. LR owes me a new alternator, it was bad before/when I installed it. Big surprise, huh? Let's just hope they don't give me any crap in getting a new one. Keeping my fingers crossed. My multimeter must be in need of calibration, it was telling me that my voltage output was 14V, at the shop on the machine, it was reading out in between 10-11V. Piece of crap parts.

 

So it was the alternator after all?

 

I'm not so sure, Wilky. There are several things that can fry diodes instantly, including a bad battery (direct short), crosswiring the alternator, hooking up jumper cables incorrectly, something else causing high current reverse polarity in the system, etc.

Be careful with the new alternator because what fried the last 2 may still be a ghost in the machine if the battery was not the root cause. Bad diodes in a factory alternator are not as common as many would have you believe, though they are common in cheap rebuilds. They're a very simple (read: reliable) electrical component and the alternators are usually tested for voltage and current output before they leave the factory.

When a new alternator blows a diode, there's usually a root cause present within the vehicle's electrical system or the installation process. For example, be absolutely certain to remove the negative terminal from the battery when you install the replacement and position it well out of the way.

Best,
Dave

 

Well, I talked to LR and I have an appointment in the morning for them to look at it. They said that the alternator should be covered under my extended warranty as it is under the engine portion. They are gonna look at it on there LR machine, (it is apparently better than all other charging system machines) and find out what the cause is and hopefully repair it under my warranty on my truck and for the part. When I replaced the battery the negative was completely away from the terminal and I took off the positive also, just to be safe. I always completely disconnect the battery when I work on anything electrical. I guess I will see in the morning what is really going on.

 

Well, it was the alternator. It's a good thing that I bought an extended factory warranty when I bought the vehicle and the diagnostic tests and repairs were covered under it. Since the part was warrantied, they are gonna try to get my money reimbursed that I paid for the alternator that I purchased from them. Maybe they're not as evil as I though they were. Thanks for all the help fellas, I'm sure I will see you again in another posting in the future. Take care brothers.

 

That's what were here for....to help our fellow LR owners!

Glad it's fixed!

 

Any outcome to the issue? I have the same issue on my 08 LR3 including the LOW POWER MODE even though the battery is just over a year old. My turn signal has even gone in and out through this whole process. Some days it clicks fast as if it’s going out/gone out and other days it’s completely normal.

 

did you read the thread?

ALTERNATOR