Hi - Well last year I sold my LR3. Regretted it and bought another. Last one was a V8 - this one a V6 and less optioned that the other (I do miss the auto-on lights!). 2006. SE.

Few things to fix and look at - what's your opinion on what to do first.

1) EPB - error - not sure what it is - if the shoes are seized or what. Anyway - fault with flashing red light. GAP tool did not unjam...but I'm not being prevented from driving it. Had given some thought to actually removing the cables although as I never use it. I think @Abran did that in a post for a customer.
1b) Pad warning light. I think this may just be a faulty sensor - but will check.
2) Air compressor pump - rebuilt by previous owner but it's still loud and barely functional (I get the occasional error - probably due to it not producing enough air/getting overheated). Was thinking of coil over for this truck and I'm tempted. I think it sinks over night and buy the time a new compressor is fitted/valves I'd be up there close to coil over costs. Also the airbags look to be original.
3) Coolant - I topped it up as it was quite low. Coolant on the driveway - it's leaking somewhere - perhaps the bottom of the overflow container. Didn't notice it before and has only occurred after filling up with coolant. Hoses look original and given the age think it's a maintenance item to replace. Should I also consider doing the radiator as I'm sure that's original too.

Leaked - always obvious when someone sells and the pics have xmas tree air fresheners. Thanks to plenty of leak detection on my previous LR3 the cold air in under the cowl was the culprit. Covered the offending corner replaced cowl. Checked the drains and A pillar holes (not fixed). Fixed all. Feel confident that I nipped that one in the bud.

So not too much - but still some attention needed.

Do you think coolant - brake - compressor is the order? Thoughts on a coil over?

Thanks!

 

Cooling system, brakes and EPB, compressor… personally, I’d fix the EPB. You never know when you might need it to either keep you in olace when parking on a slope or, really, use it for stopping the vehicle. Granted the latter rarely happens but should you lose the regular brakes it is possible get the car to a standstill with the EPB,

 

Order seems good to me
I only wanted to add that my slow coolant leak (4.4 V8) was happening along the Radiator seams (where the plastic end caps are attached to the metal body)

If you see puddling, finding your leak should be easier, but a new Rad (I went with Nissens) and hoses are not wasted $ at the age these are getting to be

 

Definitely get the coolant situation taken care of first, that one can kill the truck. If you havent, check the plastic T bleeder on top of the throttle body under the engine cover.

As for the parking brake, if you want to tackle it they sell replacement gears for the box in the rear so you dont have to go through a full replace. Cost is much cheaper too. Personally, I just yanked the parking brake fuse and was done with it.

Almost certain your pad light is the wires got snapped in the wheel well on the wear sensor. Probably worth pulling off the pads on 1 corner to confirm they're still good.

I can vouch for the AB coil kits. Rode just as smooth as bags, only difference was the roll was more noticeable around sharp corners. For me the piece of mind was worth losing the ability to change height. I can also vouch for the compressors Lucky8 sells, ran one of those as a replacement for the Hitachi and was a great unit.

https://lucky8llc.com/collections/lr...r-compressor-1

 

All good suggestions - thanks. Too bad that hose for the truck is almost all LR Genuine...I know with my V8 I was able to get most OEM.

Any thoughts on the Lucky8 Coil over vs AB?

And seriously - I could just yank the fuse and be done with the EPB? wow...

 

Yank the loop under the center console to make sure the pads aren't engaged, but yeah if you pull the fuse it wont try to engage. You'll just always have the yellow parking brake light on the dash.

Can't comment on the Lucky8 coils, but I haven't run into any issues with other things from them.

 

...that may become annoying to me because of my OCD. lol

I take it you can't remove the EPB as a component with a GAP tool?

 

​​​​​​I don't believe so. You may be able to turn the light off with the GAP tool however in the instrument panel section.

But don't think you can turn off the EPB like you can say the TPMS

 

Remove the large fuse for the parking brake in the engine bad, light should go away. You will have a permanent pad warning light as its tied to the parking brake fault. You don't really want to mess with the EPB too much and cause a jam. But you should at the very least try to adjust the EPB and likely bring it back online. The other issue is you could have damaged parking brake pads, in which case they could one day cause a jam. So dont ignore for long.