C1A13 after new AMK installed...
#41
11-26-2016, 09:46 PM
While you are waiting for your GAP to arrive, you can perhaps watch the video per my Dropbox link below.
The link is to a twenty minute long LR Defender video taken in the deserts of Libya back in 2007. There is a Prado as well.
The best part of it is probably the music so if you have a good sound system attached to your computer, the music is really appropriate in a haunting sort of way.
If you watch closely, you will see a burned out tank; also a burned out Suzuki, (I think).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/00ddxe3375...DV_PS.mpg?dl=0
The link is to a twenty minute long LR Defender video taken in the deserts of Libya back in 2007. There is a Prado as well.
The best part of it is probably the music so if you have a good sound system attached to your computer, the music is really appropriate in a haunting sort of way.
If you watch closely, you will see a burned out tank; also a burned out Suzuki, (I think).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/00ddxe3375...DV_PS.mpg?dl=0
Nice video!
#42
11-28-2016, 07:10 AM
#43
11-28-2016, 10:06 AM
Pro Wrench
Compressor runs for 30 seconds or longer upon startup?
No sinking over the weekend is really good news.
That says that your four air springs and the two block valves and piping between are good. Just knowing that is real progress.
When you put the fuse back in, and then start the engine, listen for how long the compressor first runs.
If it only runs for say 30 seconds, then I would say you do not have any significant leaks in the middle system.
If the compressor runs for say 2 minutes, which I suspect it will, then I would say that there is another leak to be looking for in the "middle" area.
This will be less frustrating than your first go around but perhaps not as easy to find as it will be a slow leak - well maybe not that slow, as that airspring did drop fairly quickly and I think the air was exiting to the atmosphere somewhere from the :middle" piping rather than a crack in the rear valve block body.
Other than a quick look for the obvious, I think I would wait for the GAP tool to arrive so you can take some readings first.
That says that your four air springs and the two block valves and piping between are good. Just knowing that is real progress.
When you put the fuse back in, and then start the engine, listen for how long the compressor first runs.
If it only runs for say 30 seconds, then I would say you do not have any significant leaks in the middle system.
If the compressor runs for say 2 minutes, which I suspect it will, then I would say that there is another leak to be looking for in the "middle" area.
This will be less frustrating than your first go around but perhaps not as easy to find as it will be a slow leak - well maybe not that slow, as that airspring did drop fairly quickly and I think the air was exiting to the atmosphere somewhere from the :middle" piping rather than a crack in the rear valve block body.
Other than a quick look for the obvious, I think I would wait for the GAP tool to arrive so you can take some readings first.
#44
11-28-2016, 12:32 PM
#45
11-28-2016, 02:26 PM
Camel Trophy
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AdrenalinPlease (11-29-2016)
#46
11-28-2016, 03:49 PM
#48
11-28-2016, 09:22 PM
Pro Wrench
Code may be a wiring concern.
I did a search of what trouble code C1A13 seems to yield for solutions.
The link below suggests a wiring concern rather than a piping problem.
I had noted the wiring reference on another thread so I thought I would mention it.
I think there is an air leak yet to be found and agree that the software update is required but do not think the current lack of update is the reason for the code being thrown.
At any rate, you can drive your 3 while you wait for the GAP to arrive.
Then after taking readings, I would probably be looking for an air leak if the gallery pressure does not stay high. Once that leak is found and repaired, then the software update and if the code persists, then maybe a chaffed wire, perhaps in or near the left front wheel well. The jpg if enlarged shows a deteriorated outer insulation conductor off the the centre lower connector.
That is a common wiring problem area.
Suspension Fault Question | Land Rover and Range Rover Forums
In the interim, you might want to do a Google search using Land Rover C1A13 fault code as a possible search term - quite a bit comes up.
The link below suggests a wiring concern rather than a piping problem.
I had noted the wiring reference on another thread so I thought I would mention it.
I think there is an air leak yet to be found and agree that the software update is required but do not think the current lack of update is the reason for the code being thrown.
At any rate, you can drive your 3 while you wait for the GAP to arrive.
Then after taking readings, I would probably be looking for an air leak if the gallery pressure does not stay high. Once that leak is found and repaired, then the software update and if the code persists, then maybe a chaffed wire, perhaps in or near the left front wheel well. The jpg if enlarged shows a deteriorated outer insulation conductor off the the centre lower connector.
That is a common wiring problem area.
Suspension Fault Question | Land Rover and Range Rover Forums
In the interim, you might want to do a Google search using Land Rover C1A13 fault code as a possible search term - quite a bit comes up.
The following users liked this post:
AdrenalinPlease (11-29-2016)
#49
11-29-2016, 07:46 AM
I have a feeling that there is a wiring problem somewhere as bbyer suggests...
I did a search of what trouble code C1A13 seems to yield for solutions.
The link below suggests a wiring concern rather than a piping problem.
I had noted the wiring reference on another thread so I thought I would mention it.
I think there is an air leak yet to be found and agree that the software update is required but do not think the current lack of update is the reason for the code being thrown.
At any rate, you can drive your 3 while you wait for the GAP to arrive.
Then after taking readings, I would probably be looking for an air leak if the gallery pressure does not stay high. Once that leak is found and repaired, then the software update and if the code persists, then maybe a chaffed wire, perhaps in or near the left front wheel well. The jpg if enlarged shows a deteriorated outer insulation conductor off the the centre lower connector.
That is a common wiring problem area.
Suspension Fault Question | Land Rover and Range Rover Forums
In the interim, you might want to do a Google search using Land Rover C1A13 fault code as a possible search term - quite a bit comes up.
The link below suggests a wiring concern rather than a piping problem.
I had noted the wiring reference on another thread so I thought I would mention it.
I think there is an air leak yet to be found and agree that the software update is required but do not think the current lack of update is the reason for the code being thrown.
At any rate, you can drive your 3 while you wait for the GAP to arrive.
Then after taking readings, I would probably be looking for an air leak if the gallery pressure does not stay high. Once that leak is found and repaired, then the software update and if the code persists, then maybe a chaffed wire, perhaps in or near the left front wheel well. The jpg if enlarged shows a deteriorated outer insulation conductor off the the centre lower connector.
That is a common wiring problem area.
Suspension Fault Question | Land Rover and Range Rover Forums
In the interim, you might want to do a Google search using Land Rover C1A13 fault code as a possible search term - quite a bit comes up.
Thanks! I will start looking at the harnesses.
#50
11-29-2016, 08:32 AM
Pro Wrench
my introduction to that connector area
My first introduction to that connector area and a wiring concern was when it appeared I needed a whole new ABS setup; well that is what the error codes said.
The concern seemed first to be a failed ABS sensor on the left rear; replacing that did not resolve the problem.
Then if appeared the whole ABS assembly required replacing at a cost of a few thousand dollars.
The solution was to repair one of the wires at the connector that fed the Left Rear ABS sensor.
The 3M black tape was free but the labor, that was not free.
The concern seemed first to be a failed ABS sensor on the left rear; replacing that did not resolve the problem.
Then if appeared the whole ABS assembly required replacing at a cost of a few thousand dollars.
The solution was to repair one of the wires at the connector that fed the Left Rear ABS sensor.
The 3M black tape was free but the labor, that was not free.