Hi all, I have an issue with our 2005 LR3 HSE 88k miles. The climate control has always been a bit slow to cool down. Now I am noticing that it may take ten minutes or so before the a/c kicks on. I have also noticed that I am getting cool air out of the driver's side but not out of the passenger side. Yes, I have checked the temp **** to confirm that the controls are both set to cold.. Any ideas on this? thanks Phil

 

Bueller, Bueller.....from my research it looks like it might be a heater/ac blend door. Anyone have experience on fixing these on a LR3? Doesn't sound like too much fun. Phil

 

What follows is not the solution, but it is a start. Like everything Land Rover, figuring out the problem is not easy. There are two procedures below.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...71/#post450914

A) Below is a service procedure from a Land Rover HVAC service instruction sheet. Note also my comments below as to how the procedure actually worked for me.

The motor and flap operation can be checked using the on-board distribution motor self-test function.

The self-test can be initiated by pressing and holding the ECON and RECIRC buttons while turning the ignition switch to the ON position.

The control module will then compare the current motor position with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED (light emitting diode).

If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.

To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.

Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.

If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.

My experience was when I did above as described, with the two buttons held down, the ECON light flashed as soon as the ignition was turned on, (engine off), and stayed flashing for nearly a minute or so and then sometimes either just went out, or the fan just started up normal like and the ECONO light went out.

Then when I let go of the buttons and turned the ignition off and back on, the defrost LED stayed off as if there were no problems - never did I see the defrost LED on.

I did the test procedure two or three times and figured it failed to do anything but now I am not so certain.

Maybe the weather has just warmed up; only -2C today and cloudy, snow tonight however again, but now the interior of the 3 seems to warm up more like I recall it used to - fairly quickly.

Also I did some other button pushing - that was cycle a few times, each of the air up, middle air, and foot well air switches that are mounted on the left side. I started with the heater on Auto showing the two little round LEDs illuminated on the fan control; then pushed the left upper air button and let the fan run for maybe a minute; then pushed the middle button and pushed off the upper, and let the fan run for a minute or so; then the foot well button and turned off the middle button.

I did that a few times, each time seeing if air would flow out of the appropriate vents. I also manually turned the fan up to full speed so that when air did flow, there was a real blast.

What I was doing was manually trying to cycle the air doors on the chance that one or more doors just might be sticking and would perhaps un-stick themselves.

I think I may have solved a problem even if I was not certain I had one.

B) Here is another sort of test procedure; you can try it both before and after procedure A above, and see if anything changed.

A few things can cause this; from the heater core clogging up to the blend motor failing, and even the blend door flap in the heater box failing, both mechanically, and from the seal melting/deteriorating.

The best way to test it is as follows.

Turn Econ on, set to a medium fan speed and face level vents, and let the engine warm up.

Set one side to hot and the other to cold(not all the way, but one notch before full hot/cold)

Check temp coming out.

Change one temp to match the other.

Check the air temp again.

Reverse temp selections that were first set, one hot one cold.

Recheck temps, and then both to the same setting as above, and check one last time.

Feeling is usually enough of an indicator, no thermometer needed.

By setting one to hot and the other to cold, you limit the path of air passing over the heater core, so if it is clogging, you will still get warm air on each side by doing this. It might not be as warm one side to the other, but it will be far better then with both sides set to warm.

If the blend motor or door itself has failed, there will not be any change of temp when going from hot-cold to match the other side.

If a blend motor/door issue is found to be the case, the motor can be removed, and the door manually moved. This should give full heat on the side that there wasn't before. If it is not, then it is either the door itself not sealing, or the heater core is blocked up - probably not that by the way, it will be the blend doors most likely.

 

thanks for the info. I will try the procedures out in the morning. Love this site. Phil

 

i tried the methods suggested. The test seemed to go fine. When I change the temp and the vents I can hear the servos moving and coming to a stop. Odd thing is I just am not getting cold air from the passenger side (frankly, the driver's side isnt' really that cold but it is noticeably colder than the passenger side). There is a difference between the cold and the hot on the passenger side, so it does appear that the servos are moving. Very strange. Any other suggestions? Phil

 

Given that it is San Diego, I guess you are not too concerned about the heater operation.

What I am getting at, is try the same tests on full heat or near full heat. I say near full heat and I gather that either full heat or full cold puts the fan in high speed which you want anyway to more easily feel where the air is exiting from or not.

Also, do you have the rear heater fan/AC as well? If so, put it on Auto so it follows the front unit.

A defective air door motor is not unusual but is difficult to change. I think ultimately if it seems to be a defective air motor, that for the most part, is a dealer fix.

Re the AC, I assume you have a fully charged system? That is not an air door thing, but I have my system recharged at least every two years and sometimes each year depending upon my mood I suppose. After a recharge, the AC always feels stronger. Below are the air door part numbers.

Recirculation JNC500010, now new part number JNC500040

Defrost Stepper JWO500010, now new part number LR041271

Footwell Stepper JWO500020, now new part number LR041272

Air Mix Blend JWO500030, now new part number LR041273

 

well, sometimes you get lucky and the fix is easy. I had the freon checked, the LR3 with the rear air takes 2.1 pounds of freon. Mine had .5 pounds......We evacuated the system and reloaded with the proper amount of freon, the a/c works great, frigid air out of both sides of the dash and the rear! Thanks for the suggestions, all is good, now I can do an oil change and drain and fill the front and rear differentials and transfer case.