Dang, I feel for you! We had chewed wires in lots of places, the list:
center console the wire bundle that comes up through the bottom of the console that feeds the parking brake, the transmission selector lights, some sound related wires, about twenty in that area, they also chewed some of the coating off of the transmission cable from the selector to the tranny housing
2. B-Pillars both side, a couple of wires a the bottom of each pillar
3. about 8 to 10 wires behind the glove boxes and around the hvac blower motor and some in the far right pocket behind and to the side of the fuse panel
4. several chewed/cut wires in the drivers footwell, far left side. There were also a half dozen or so in the bundle that goes through the hole in the firewall to the left of the steering column.

Getting the center console out was a pain the tail, lots of hidden screws and plugs that are hard to figure out without a guide. I will take some photos of the side panels that may give you a better idea of what to look for. It takes a bit to get it out, take lots of photos, getting the right screws, bolts, etc. in the right holes is a challenge......we had rat crap and pee, etc. covering much of the areas behind, under and on top of the dash, it was so sick, I just wanted the stuff out and didn't do a very good job of documenting the dissection. I am sure that I will have dozens of screws, bolts, etc. left over.....

I tried firing her up on Saturday, it had started a few weeks ago. I get nothing. I can hear the fuel pump but the starter doesn't engage, click or anything, brand new battery, fully charged and I even put a booster on it.

I have a transmission fault on the dash, the gear indicator on the dash says "E" and the parking brake engages, you can hear it very clearly, but it won't release....I used the manual release cord, works well.

I have a low coolant indicator, radiator is out, engine temp indicator out, the wires were torn from the plug, on the list to fix, the transmission fault, engine limited performance indicator (or something like that). I think that I am going to have to get a Land Rover specific scan tool to figure this all out, or have a mechanic with the scan tool come to the house! I am tiring of this adventure and I don't even have the shock pipes connected, requires removing each of the front two shocks, reinstall the radiator and front bumper, lights, grill, etc. and then have it painted and aligned. not to mention reinstallation of the rest of the dash, steering wheel and seats......

 

wow hope this was free lol must have been pack rats or something
is this a lr3 or range rover?


if it is an lr3 with heated seats can you post good pics of your harness particularly the heater controls, and plugs for the front seats

ok now since you won't start and your park brake will not turn off, checked the brake switch


not sure this is the type of vehicle I would want to do a harness in good luck

 

any updates? I have dash questions


pdf are here https://www.cubbyusercontent.com/pl/...0and%20Console


looks like you have to remove the dash supports to remove the upper dash pad? and to do this you have to strip down the steering column? this can be right, all I want to do is pull the dash pad

 

Anybody?

 

Tom, did you get it figured out. I just kept taking things off. I was sifting through rat poop and dried pee at the time so I didn't document the experience as well as I should have. There is a bolt under the center speaker and another that goes through the firewall on the driver's side that gave me fits until I noticed that they were there. After that, things went pretty smoothly. Phil

 

If I remember right, it's about an 11 hour job at the dealer to remove and replace the upper dash (the part that cracks around the airbags), so yeah... It's a lot of work.

 

Do you realty need to pull the steering column to remove the dash pad? Fsm shows gutting the column that makes no frigging sense

 

I was pulling the entire dash and interior. I don't think that you would have to take out the steering wheel to remove the dash. I could probably r and r the dash in about 6 hours tops. Keep track of what screws and bolts go where. Use marked baggies and take lots of photos. It he's
Los on the reassembly. Phil.

 

Looks like if I pull the radio,vents, center speaker and panels on the sides of the column I should access all the screws, unless there are some behind the gauges