Factory HID Bulbs - 4300K or 6000k?
Come to think of it, I have yet to change the supplementary high beam bulbs as they are I guess not used much.
Actually I use them most often for flash to pass when someone is blocking the passing lane. I do not know if it is the front end of the Land Rover or the Land Rover name or just the flashing beams, but for some reason, everyone immediately gets out of the way. Given that I live in the land of pickups, it is sure not vehicle size.
I recall one time where a Kenworth gave up trying to move a slow mover over and as soon as I flashed, the move over was immediate - always wondered about that one - why?
Funny, in the past when we had the 4 USA style sealed beams, having high beam burn out was not uncommon - now with the halogens, it just does not seem to happen.
I suppose having all the same colour makes sense. Actually I suppose it is not a real problem as one does not run on high beam in rain, snow, or fog and they should be off for approaching traffic.
The real question is one of definition - how much more than say 5000K does the beam colour cause one to lose definition.
I note your comment on the PIAA 2500K yellow - it definitely looks yellow when driving behind it - for me my aiming is such that I have fill in right in front of my 3 and in the ditches. In good weather, I find I use them out of town on two lane and less country roads when I am sort of picking my way down the road rather than any sort of bombing along. At least with PIAA, one has some sort of assurance of quality.
In bad weather, then I use the PIAA yellow fogs on the 4 lane and the like, I figure they provide a sort of recognition function as the yellow is rare plus giving me the fill in as well.
Actually I use them most often for flash to pass when someone is blocking the passing lane. I do not know if it is the front end of the Land Rover or the Land Rover name or just the flashing beams, but for some reason, everyone immediately gets out of the way. Given that I live in the land of pickups, it is sure not vehicle size.
I recall one time where a Kenworth gave up trying to move a slow mover over and as soon as I flashed, the move over was immediate - always wondered about that one - why?
Funny, in the past when we had the 4 USA style sealed beams, having high beam burn out was not uncommon - now with the halogens, it just does not seem to happen.
I suppose having all the same colour makes sense. Actually I suppose it is not a real problem as one does not run on high beam in rain, snow, or fog and they should be off for approaching traffic.
The real question is one of definition - how much more than say 5000K does the beam colour cause one to lose definition.
I note your comment on the PIAA 2500K yellow - it definitely looks yellow when driving behind it - for me my aiming is such that I have fill in right in front of my 3 and in the ditches. In good weather, I find I use them out of town on two lane and less country roads when I am sort of picking my way down the road rather than any sort of bombing along. At least with PIAA, one has some sort of assurance of quality.
In bad weather, then I use the PIAA yellow fogs on the 4 lane and the like, I figure they provide a sort of recognition function as the yellow is rare plus giving me the fill in as well.
I had posted a while ago that my truck had one yellow eye and one blue. I was thinking the PO replaced one with the wrong color temp until I noticed yesterday that my blue eye has changed to mauve. Definitely on its way out. I had never had a HID fade on me like this.... weird. Looking forward to getting a couple new 5000k ones in there.
I had posted a while ago that my truck had one yellow eye and one blue. I was thinking the PO replaced one with the wrong color temp until I noticed yesterday that my blue eye has changed to mauve. Definitely on its way out. I had never had a HID fade on me like this.... weird. Looking forward to getting a couple new 5000k ones in there.
Not that additional light is needed at all with the LR3 HID set up, but you can use a D2R style bulb in a D2S socket if you cut a notch in the appropriate place (or find a D2C bulb, which fits both). D2R lacks the blocked off portion of the bulb for increased light output, though in many cases where the housing is designed for the D2S, a D2R means increased glare for oncoming traffic.
My other car (Volvo) has utterly terrible HID reflector bi-xenons and switching to a D2R makes it a bit better.
Follow up on replacing my headlight bulbs... I ordered the 5000 k bulbs from Amazon back at the beginning of Jan and within a week, the failing bulb went dark. The problem is, the supplier for Amazon for those bulbs is in Europe (which they don't disclose) and they can't guarantee the delivery before the 19th of Feb!?? I contacted Amazon today and they have promised me a refund on the bulbs when I refuse to take delivery so I will be buying local. Dealer wanted $120 each plus tax... I found them at Napa for $90 each for Sylvania's
Good news is I haven't been pulled over yet for the burnt out bulb and thankfully, having a headlight go out doesn't cause the transmission/transfer case/flux capacitor, to act up and start throwing codes and shutting me down.
Good news is I haven't been pulled over yet for the burnt out bulb and thankfully, having a headlight go out doesn't cause the transmission/transfer case/flux capacitor, to act up and start throwing codes and shutting me down.
Next time anybody needs bulbs, I have used these guys 3 times. Ships FAST from the UK with pretty decent pricing.
https://www.powerbulbs.com/
https://www.powerbulbs.com/
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bangkuaidiscovery04
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Jun 6, 2009 05:20 PM



