I didn't see anything in this forum for this fault so I thought I'd share my easy fix for what I thought was going to be an expensive repair. Friday evening while returning home I got the yellow suspension warning light so I plugged in my GAP tool while driving (not recommended) to see what the fault was. It was C1A27-14 Compressor circuit, general electrical failure- circuit short to ground or open. My first thought was great, my pump has an internal short and is going to need to be replaced. After some digging around on the web I found on another forum someone with the same fault and they fixed it by replacing the 60A fusible link in the underhood fuse box. This person refers to this as fusible link F10, I could not find a Land Rover LR3 diagram that shows this location but when looking in the fuse box there is only one 60A fusible link. When looking at mine I saw it was also burnt so I went to AutoZone and got a new one for $6 and the problem was solved, I also ordered 2 more to keep in the truck for spares. If you go to your local parts store for a replacement they may also refer to them as maxi-fuses because of their higher amp rating. I think a combination of things led to mine failing, age (it was probably original), also my dryer canister was clogged when I got the truck so the compressor was working harder than it needed to for who knows how long, also my front valve block was leaking so every time I started the truck in the morning it would have to refill the the tank and all 4 struts.

 

Was that fault intermittent or did it stay on all the time once it was set?

 

One time earlier in the day I was able to turn the ignition off then back on again and the waring light in the dash went away but that only lasted for a little while. Once the warning light wouldn't go away with cycling the key I got out the GAP tool to see what the fault was and tried to clear it and it wouldn't clear. The warning light in the dash self reset after replacing the fusible link but the fault was still in the module but went away after clearing again with the GAP tool.

 

I see. I get a different "General Electrical Failure" on my '06. I was wondering if the fix might be the same. The fault in my case just goes away, even w/o cycling power. The code remains but the warning indications go away after 10 seconds maybe.

 

You could just need a compressor refresh, the compressor could be working too hard and tripping the temp switch. How old is your dryer? I know for my truck there is a software update available as well for the air suspension module but I haven't had enough down time for my truck and phone to sit uninterrupted for 78 min.

 

I have only had this one for two years so I'm not sure about the compressor age. I may have records on that. I feel like it runs strong strong...similar to my '05.

 

I received this code (C1A27), it didn't have -14, though... however, I changed the compressor nothing happened didn't come on... came back to this forum as I always do and said let me change this fuse.... and my girl is back up and running!!🥳🥳🥳 I'm so grateful for this website.

 

Hey guys, I had the same fault code C1a27-14 and I replaced that 60 amp fusible link and the compressor was working again. But that same fuse blew out 2 weeks later. I swapped the fuse again but there must be an underlying issue. Should I change out the compressor or is there something else that could be at fault?

 

You may want to check the wires that rest atop the driver side frame "horn". That is behind the wheel and on early years bolted on instead of welded. You will have to pull the plastic liner for a good view. They can rest on that horn and rub thru. A redesigned wheel well liner was suppose to fix the issue. Otherwise the compressor is probably dying and pulling too much power.