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Fix it or move on?

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  #11  
Old 11-17-2018 | 12:58 PM
Rufflyer's Avatar
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From: Collins, Missouri
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Funny this thread should come up now. I have have a very similar problem but less money to repair.

The first of this month, I bought a 2006 SE with 105,000 on it. It had heated seats/wind shield and satnav and most important for me.... a tan interior. I spent the last few weeks making upgrades to satnav and adding an aux battery.

I Drove it last night and heard the distinct sound of a bad front diff. It was warm when I bought the car and did not notice the sound. I did feel a little wobble in the steering wheel but figured that would go away by balancing the tires.

Today I crawled under it to to filter/fluid change for the engine, diffs and transfer case, and found a leak on the left front axle seal and the paint/coating all peeling off of the front diff. It confirmed I needed a new front diff ADD $1300 to the purchase price. The wobble turned into a clicking noise inside the steering rack so ADD $300 to the purchase price.

I made my decision...I will fix it . I can not get a better car for what ir will cost to repair it. As I have said a few times on the forum, I always allow $1800 to $2000 when buy one to allow for those things I just can't see or test.

If the dealer had proof of a new steering rack and a new diff, would I pay $1600 more? maybe, or at least would have a place to start the negotiation.

My car is paid for, so If if costs a few thousand dollars a month until next spring I am STILL dollars ahead.

Just my point of view. In the end it is up to you to decide what the Rover is worth TO YOU, not US

Jeff

Just because the repairs will be close to 1/3 of the purchase price does not what it is or what it can do. I have pulled into the garage and will start pulling pieces off of it this next week.
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-2018 | 01:48 PM
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Thank you for your thoughts. I think it’s going to be a car donation for the local NPR station. I have been pretty happy with the truck and was hoping that it would just a little bit longer, perhaps to 200k miles. The local LR mechanic, a good guy, said that the fuel sender could cost up to $1300 for a new tank if he can’t get to the fuel sender unit in the tank. But from what I gathered, it should be feasible but difficult. Now the front door latch won’t lock. I think that is the signal! Opened up the door panel this morning and got to the window mechanism, but stumped with the glass panel in the way. .

Yes I did post the same question on another forum, but silly me, I could not remember which one it was despite multiple searches, so I came back here, I have been reading this forum all these years since the fuel filling tank problem in 2005. Learned a lot and much appreciate your collective knowledge from tires to oil and on and on.
 
  #13  
Old 11-17-2018 | 02:03 PM
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From: Green Bay, WI
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Seriously, new mechanic. A used tank is $300. A new tank is $800 w/rear sending unit. Both sending units can be replaced via DIY, there are videos showing this. What makes the rear hard is the tight fit, but it's doable.

The locks - annoying. My driver has the same issue. But if I double-lock (remote lock twice), it's locked. I took dove inside, but stopped. There is a very simply solution that involves bending a tab to fix it. That takes second, the removal procedure - thats that hard part.
 
  #14  
Old 11-17-2018 | 06:50 PM
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
Seriously, new mechanic. A used tank is $300. A new tank is $800 w/rear sending unit. Both sending units can be replaced via DIY, there are videos showing this. What makes the rear hard is the tight fit, but it's doable.

The locks - annoying. My driver has the same issue. But if I double-lock (remote lock twice), it's locked. I took dove inside, but stopped. There is a very simply solution that involves bending a tab to fix it. That takes second, the removal procedure - thats that hard part.
Where did you source a new tank for $800?
 
  #15  
Old 11-17-2018 | 07:12 PM
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From: Green Bay, WI
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^ From Merriam Parts. $785 actually for new OEM.
 
  #16  
Old 11-17-2018 | 07:43 PM
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Will the engine be good for 200k miles? Is there any way to check ? I remember on my older car, I could do the compression test to determine the engine’s condition.
 
  #17  
Old 11-18-2018 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by NKTA
Will the engine be good for 200k miles? Is there any way to check ? I remember on my older car, I could do the compression test to determine the engine’s condition.
I don't see why not. My engine just clocked 240 000 and it is in superb condition. I do add BG MOA from time to time to improve winter driving though.
 
  #18  
Old 11-18-2018 | 09:00 AM
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
^ From Merriam Parts. $785 actually for new OEM.
yeah, but the shipping!!!
 
  #19  
Old 11-18-2018 | 11:30 AM
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From: Green Bay, WI
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^ Shipping is $60 to my place. I am sure it varies a bit for everyone based on location, but still thats not too bad. Its a pretty light item for its size.
 
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