Is it imperative that I lower my LR3 and bleed out the system before changing the front block? I'm not getting a fault but my front end is lower in the AM.

 

I've had to do a lot of work on the suspension lately, I depressurize before removing connections through the GAP tool. I don't believe it is necessary however. I've watched several videos where others just crack the Voss fittings until they hear the air release, and then allow it to bleed out, and then turn it a little more and allow it to keep bleeding. Recommended? Probably yes, but doesn't appear necessary.

 

I want to remove the compressor to fit a replacement cover that I have bought to replace the one missing when I purchased the vehicle. I see the Gap II has depressurize and build mode. Should I depressurize and put in build mode and then jack the car to work on? Thanks. Any advice appreciated.

 

No need, put it in off-road and just pull the lines and let what little pressure is there escape.

 

Yes, you can bleed the system by loosening a voss connection. Just go slow. It will depressurize the entire system.

Check the bottom voss connection on that front valve block. Test with soapy water, look for.bubnles. Could be a leak in the threading or a leaking o ring inside the voss connector. The voss connector brass can be reused and even rebuilt by picking out that little o ring inside the brass where the tube slides in and just replacing the o ring. Careful with those C collars, they can break.

Aftermarket valve blocks suck. Very weak plastic at that bottom intake connection. I've never been able to torque them to spec without stripping the threads. eBay has o ring kits to rebuild and a used, rebuilt OE valve block will last much longer than an aftermarket block. Rebuilt takes about 20 min.

Also check the fittings going out of the compressor towards the engine/front. Right inside the compressor box, 3 bolts to gain access. Those are the lines that feed the front valve block. They can also leak. I've even had one connector pop out going over a bump once.

 

The bottom connection is the LH sprig in the front and RH spring in the rear. Air in/out is on the side of the block.

 

Hi, does anyone know whether the front & rear suspension valve bodies are interchangeable, I know the part numbers are different however the aftermarket units are sometimes advertised as being able to use under both part numbers. Has anyone experienced or know someone who's tried to see if they work..?

 

They are not. And if mixed up can cause some weirdness because the sides get switched - meaning if it wants to lower the rear driver corner the rear passenger will drop instead. However I am pretty sure if you get creative with the lines and swap left and right it would work. Or get really creative and re-wire the connector. But the lines are already really tight, so you would need to extend them.

So if you look here you can see what I mean. The line going out the bottom on the front is for the left front strut. On the rear block the line going out the Bottom is for the right hand rear strut. So as you can see, if you can just swap the lines I think it would work. If the LR engineers were smart, they could have designed it where one block would work for both locations.

 

Cheers Mate. That's a very clear way of putting it.
I would have tried as I have a spare front unit but the rear valve body is in a ***** of a place to get at, so thought it best to ask first...