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Front suspension both sides throwing errors…

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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 06:02 AM
  #1  
cavenger123's Avatar
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Default Front suspension both sides throwing errors…

Last night on my 2006 Land Rover lr3 I was replacing the middle reservoir relief valve. I got it replaced, started the car and enabled the suspension. The compressor turned on and everything but then I got these two errors when I tried to raise the suspension:

C1A31-01 (AF) Front left corner valve - General failure information - general electrical failure At 214276 mi Triggered on 20-11-2025 20:36:57

C1A32-01 (AF) Front right corner valve - General failure information - general electrical failure At 214276 mi Triggered on 20-11-2025 20:36:57

…and the suspension goes into fault and then does it again if I try to raise again. I put on the old reservoir valve and it did the same thing. is there something near that relief valve that powers the front? I looked at fuses and those are good. I looked at connections are the relief valve and I think those are good but will look closer tonight.

Any input would be appreciated!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 05:33 PM
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The middle block ONLY regulate the reservoir operation and the block also has the gallery pressure sensor. It does not in any way direct air to the front or rear. So your fault is at the front valve block or wiring to it. To me it seems like it is not plugged in.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
The middle block ONLY regulate the reservoir operation and the block also has the gallery pressure sensor. It does not in any way direct air to the front or rear. So your fault is at the front valve block or wiring to it. To me it seems like it is not plugged in.
I haven’t checked it yet, but unfortunately, I think it’s a wire break. I am really bumbed out about it but it is what it is. Now I have to learn how to find a wire break on these old *** wires. But I hope somehow you are right and that valve is not plugged in.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 07:10 PM
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I had a wire break on mine. Never really found the actual break as the wires run under the radiator to the driver side. So.... a bit of a pain to properly pull the wire cover and check em out. Found it was A LOT easier to check for continuity from plug end to the other side. Then I just ran one wire and all was well again. But FIRST I really recommend simply pulling on the front valve block wire harness and see if the plug happens to pop off easily. Myself and one other on here had an issue where the weather seal in the front block bound up inside the plug. The result was one could connect the plug, it would seem to hold but it was really not fully clicked in place. I drove many, many miles like with weird random faults off road when I would hit something hard.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
I had a wire break on mine. Never really found the actual break as the wires run under the radiator to the driver side. So.... a bit of a pain to properly pull the wire cover and check em out. Found it was A LOT easier to check for continuity from plug end to the other side. Then I just ran one wire and all was well again. But FIRST I really recommend simply pulling on the front valve block wire harness and see if the plug happens to pop off easily. Myself and one other on here had an issue where the weather seal in the front block bound up inside the plug. The result was one could connect the plug, it would seem to hold but it was really not fully clicked in place. I drove many, many miles like with weird random faults off road when I would hit something hard.
I am going to check the front block tomorrow. I have done work on it but that was a while back. Was your break in that insulated loom of small wires? How did hard was it to test? I have a power probe 3000 coming tomorrow. I am pretty sure my break is near the reservoir because that’s where I have working.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2025 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
I had a wire break on mine. Never really found the actual break as the wires run under the radiator to the driver side. So.... a bit of a pain to properly pull the wire cover and check em out. Found it was A LOT easier to check for continuity from plug end to the other side. Then I just ran one wire and all was well again. But FIRST I really recommend simply pulling on the front valve block wire harness and see if the plug happens to pop off easily. Myself and one other on here had an issue where the weather seal in the front block bound up inside the plug. The result was one could connect the plug, it would seem to hold but it was really not fully clicked in place. I drove many, many miles like with weird random faults off road when I would hit something hard.
Well, Son of a GUN! That was it!!! I’m so happy right now! Now, next thing is to confirm this thing is working right. I put in the new valve which has resolved my constant spitting exhaust valve opening that was coming the old valve.

I still don’t think I’m quite right though. What should the gallery pressure while it is just sitting there idle? Here is what mine does. If the valves need to open, they open and close fairly quickly and the truck rises to the right level, the compressor turns on, the gallery fills to over 200 something psi (or something like that, I can’t remember the exact number), the compressed turns off and the pressure falls to like 30 psi. It will sit there until the next time the valves need to open.

Shouldn’t the gallery hold the pressure? I did put new desiccant in the air dryer. Is there anything else I need to check?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2025 | 05:46 PM
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Those psi’s sound reasonable to me. The gallery should not be at high pressure by default. You see a drop down to 20-30 psi after the reservoir is filled and the valve to the reservoir is shut because the system vents the gallery. The gallery is actually quite small and only connected to the high pressure reservoir when the valve opens to release air from the reservoir to the struts, or the valve is open to pump air into the reservoir to store it.

 
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