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GPS Antenna Problem

  #1  
Old 11-22-2012, 11:08 AM
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Default GPS Antenna Problem

I have posted this on Disco3 but I am still looking for a diagram showing the antenna wiring.

Here is the background to my problem:
1) third brake light cracked by driver error.
2) Yours truly removes broken glued in cover (Good thinking LR) which involves pliers, cracking plastic and much swearing.
3) GPS functioning fine without third brake light cover in place.
4) New cover glued into place and now I get the GPS with slash through it on the NAV screen.

Three things could have happened I guess:

1) Antenna "broke" while gluing in new brake light.
2) Antenna cable (small coax?) became dislodged while gluing
3) New replacement cover from Land Rover doesn't work with my 06 antenna location.

Did LR change the location of the GPS antenna in later models? Any wiring diagrams of the antenna area?

Ideas?

Thanks.

ps. I think I will try a hard reset before I decide to smash my new brake light cover to remove it and see what is going on. Any tips on how to remove this easier?
 
  #2  
Old 11-22-2012, 11:07 PM
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Default The HMS is to be cut out like it was the windscreen.

The LR recommended method of removing the high mounted stoplamp is to cut the sealant using a glazing knife. This infers that the plastic lens can then be reused after removal of any old sealant. You will need more sealant but that is about all - and yes, a few screws and a gasket would now seem better but that concept, a lesser vehicle would use.

The GPS antenna is a sort of small square box that sees thru the lens plastic. It is mounted under the right hand side of the lens. The coax cable from the antenna may have got damaged or just disconnected in the lens breaking process.

The GPS antenna in the LR4 may be in the fin, but I doubt it. The fin, if installed on an LR3 in USA is for the satellite radio antenna, Sirius XM, I believe.

Off hand, does the rear water squirter still work? I think you would have had to fuss with that as well; also the light. You may as well check the operation of all before you remove again.

When you remove the plastic and fuss with the antenna, I suggest checking the operation of the NAV before you glue the lens back in as well as the squirter and the light itself.
 
  #3  
Old 11-23-2012, 11:26 AM
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Default

The problem with LR's suggested metheod of removal is that the gluing area is recessed in a couple of inches from the edge of the brake light cover. This makes getting a knife in there almost impossible. Perhaps a wire ould work. Either way it is a royal pain. The glass shop that the local dealer uses hates the job.

Yes I know where the antenna is and all was functioning before the final gluing. That is what makes this all the more frustrating. I doubt the cable became detached so I must assume some urethane must have got on the antenna and that is what is buggering it.

The squirter of course is hooked up etc. It is actually easy to access these items, simply pull down the rear trim pieces.

I may cut the antenna cable, splice a new end and hook a new antenna somewhere near the old one. Either that or try to remove the old light.
 
  #4  
Old 11-23-2012, 10:55 PM
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Default Wondered about the part number.

The apparent part number of the red lens for the LR3 was initially XFG00062 and is now LR029623 and appears to be good for vehicles from 2005 to 2009.

LAND ROVER LR3 LR4 REAR TAIL THIRD BRAKE STOP LAMP LIGHT LR029623 XFG000062 NEW | eBay


I looked at mine today and noted what you were talking about - the glue is not visible but instead behind and under. I have heard of guys cutting the sealant with a wire but no one calls it a fun task.

I set the garage door down on top of mine a few years back and have only scratches to remind me - sounds like I was lucky. At the time I was pleased it was not the glass roof.

Antenna part numbers seem to be XUI500240 followed by LR017429. I wondered what the voltage of the antenna was. It seems that GPS antennas can run any number of odd voltages, at least to me they are odd.

I note the RRS uses a different part number for the red lens.

http://miamibritish.com/shop/land-rover-third-brake-stop-lamp-light-range-sport-06-09-xfg/

One thought I did have is do nothing for a week or so - sometimes these things seem to fix themselves.
 
  #5  
Old 11-19-2013, 08:07 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by bbyer
The apparent part number of the red lens for the LR3 was initially XFG00062 and is now LR029623 and appears to be good for vehicles from 2005 to 2009.

LAND ROVER LR3 LR4 REAR TAIL THIRD BRAKE STOP LAMP LIGHT LR029623 XFG000062 NEW | eBay


I looked at mine today and noted what you were talking about - the glue is not visible but instead behind and under. I have heard of guys cutting the sealant with a wire but no one calls it a fun task.

I set the garage door down on top of mine a few years back and have only scratches to remind me - sounds like I was lucky. At the time I was pleased it was not the glass roof.

Antenna part numbers seem to be XUI500240 followed by LR017429. I wondered what the voltage of the antenna was. It seems that GPS antennas can run any number of odd voltages, at least to me they are odd.

I note the RRS uses a different part number for the red lens.

http://miamibritish.com/shop/land-rover-third-brake-stop-lamp-light-range-sport-06-09-xfg/

One thought I did have is do nothing for a week or so - sometimes these things seem to fix themselves.

Is there any reason that the GPS would be acting up after replacing brake light switch? Coincidentally the day I replaced mine, the vehicle has not tracked right on the GPS. Literally not once. I find it all too assuming that they are somehow connected.
 
  #6  
Old 11-19-2013, 10:17 PM
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Default has to be calibrated

When you say "has not tracked right", do you mean it shows you consistently about the same distance away from where you are supposed to be.

If so, you just have to recalibrate the NAV unit. I forget how right now but the instructions are in the NAV manual.

It is sort of a finger thing - you just have the NAV running and slide your finger to where you really are and then the little marker takes the hint and follows you correctly.

I can only think that somehow about the time you were changing the brake switch, you uncalibrated your unit.
 
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bbyer
When you say "has not tracked right", do you mean it shows you consistently about the same distance away from where you are supposed to be.

If so, you just have to recalibrate the NAV unit. I forget how right now but the instructions are in the NAV manual.

It is sort of a finger thing - you just have the NAV running and slide your finger to where you really are and then the little marker takes the hint and follows you correctly.

I can only think that somehow about the time you were changing the brake switch, you uncalibrated your unit.
Thanks for your response.

The speed at which the nav moves is much faster than the car does. I've noticed similarities in where the indicator icon is when making my commute to work. This tells me it's somewhat consistent. Just consistently wrong. I ran diag with PIN 753 but need to go back into it to see if I can find the GPS satelitte receiving menu. I found some images on rangerovers.net gps issue that display before and after the GPS FAKRA antenna is replaced. Not that it doesn't follow roads. Sometimes i'll find myself in the Atlantic or past my destination when running guidance.

I'm just wondering if the nav speed sensor is failing to recognize the vehicle braking.
 

Last edited by NorthBoundLR3; 11-19-2013 at 11:51 PM.
  #8  
Old 11-20-2013, 10:24 PM
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Default perhaps try a hard reset

I regard the NAV as part of the radio package, or more correctly, the entertainment system.

While I have yet to have any problems with the NAV, I have had the radio display turn to hash and the radio not work at all, in one case after changing the starter motor.

About the only thing the starter as in common with the radio is that they both use electricity.

Anyway, below is the hard reset instructions, and only good can result or no apparent change; the hard reset does no harm to anything except the time has to be reset.

I doubt there is any communication between the vehicle speed sensor and the GPS - the GPS figures speed by itself. I guess what I am saying is that the solution to the problem will turn out to be simple, but determining out the solution will be near impossible.


Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.) Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully no or fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure.

http://bit.ly/14WXXR1


http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
 
  #9  
Old 11-25-2013, 10:31 AM
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When driving outside (not in garage) does your display have a little gps with a slash through it? You can manual recalibrate the system as suggested but after that the system uses GPS to calibrate. The system will use wheel revolutions and the compass to approximate the location until communication with the GPS satellite can be restored (ie. tunnels)
 
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