Hello Everyone,
Just got an '06 LR3 last week, and trying to address some issues. It seems to have these issue upon startup:
-HDC Fault
-Suspension Lowered
-Special programs not available

Looking through the great threads here, suggested causes seem to be a low battery, brake light switch, or corroded ground wire. Is there anything else? I can sometimes hear the compressor running.

The battery voltage seems ok. I don't seem to be getting the "christmas" light dilemma that others have. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!!

 

Brake Light switches are common for that, but it would be beneficial to you to get the system scanned for fault codes. Many other things can cause those symptoms as well. Its rare that an electrical fault can be isolated from symptoms alone.

 

You need a GAP tool. Anything else is speculation/guesswork.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I ordered the iCarsoft Land Rover tool from Amazon, and read the codes below. I also took it to a mechanic who read codes using his laptop (screenshot). I would greatly appreciate the help.

I'm wondering if I must take it to a dealer for further diagnosing or not.




screenshot from mechanic's computer

 

Thanks much for the suggestions. These are the codes I received using the iCarsoft tool, and would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

U0122

 

I would't worry about the "Loss of Communication" faults. When certain faults are stored, the vehicle will disable communications to other "related" modules so they are disabled as well. Usually when you fix the root failure, the communication codes will go away.

The two codes you have are for the Pressure Sensor, and if the wiring is OK, then you probably just have a faulty sensor. I'm not sure if the sensor is available separately from the valve block. We usually see valve block failures, and a new one comes with a sensor.

 

Do you have the nav screen in your Lr3? If yes check the 4 wheel drive screen. Check to see if any of the tires are bouncing around. Might be a height sensor, low battery, corroded wire driver side wheel well or passenger side under carpet right near the door entry, steering angle calibration, bad compressor, also make sure you use oem brake bulbs. etc... My first course of action would be to change out the brake switch, cheap part easy 10 minute repair. I would suggest getting the gap tool, I used it to calibrate my steering angle and no more suspension fault. The tool paid a third of itself with that one use. The Stealership charges $120 to calibrate. Bluetooth GAP cost under $500.

 

Ah, ok, thanks for the info. The whole car is sitting low now. Are there two valve blocks on the entire car, and should I replace both (all)? How would I tell which one is bad?

Would I order this one? EAS Valve Block For The Front Axle - Genuine Part RVH000095

Thanks so much for the help; really appreciate it.

 

@Isentropic you've heard twice from as many people that you need to get a GAP tool, and the post-count on this thread is not that deep. "Get the GAP IIDTool." There, tha'ts three now. Heed that advice, please. There are three valve blocks (front, rear, and gallery) but throwing parts at the EAS is going to make you a unhappy and less wealthy.

Here is exactly what I'd do if I were you:

1. Order my GAP tool immediately.
2. Get the EAS to normal height somehow.
3. Pull the EAS-related fuses.
4. Wait for my GAP tool and diagnose the EAS.
5. Fix the actual issues, now that you know them.

Hope that helps.

 

Look, Ill be the first to say it... You should buy a GAP tool.