Been having exrended crank issues on cold mornings like 0*f

Mileage down to 12mpg, slight rough idle not too noticeable

I did the plugs , thoroughly cleaned the throttle body off vehicle, and cleaned the mass air flow, nothing helped

It was suggested by my dealer tech friend to run some good injector cleaner, land rover recommends bg44k available on amazon and dump in tank

I figured since this truck sat for years before i bought it i would do a real cleaning

So spend $106 on ebay for a complete kit and $17 on amazon for the fluid

Now there is a video from a company on youtube showing a otc tool on an lr3 doing this service, its ok but the otc tool does not include adapters and so you buy seperate or rig up the tool

The tool i bought came with a tool to clamp off the rubber fuel line and adapter for the rail service port


I also cleaned the tool with brake clean spray inside to be sure there was no metal shavings or other contamination from the manufacturer

Use a 6mm socket and remove the engine cover (put oil fill back on )

Access the pass side under hood fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse f1 see pic

Start engine and alow to run till stall

Using supplied line clamp ,clamp the fuel feed line rear of engine see pic

Remove fuel rail service port cap and screw on provided adapter, then attach tool ( there may still be fuel pressure but its insignificant )

Hang gauges on the hood latch loop

Fill the stainless cup with cleaning solution and attach to the gauges

Attach air supply and set incoming gauge to 65 psi ( pump pressure ) on the tools regulator

Start engine

Let run till it dies again, this takes several minutes, i also ran her hi idle for a minute but the engine did not want to come off idle, lots of smells from the exhaust so dont worry

Once the engine runs out of fluid disconnect air and bleed off the pressure using the bleed button on the tool

Remove tool and hose clamp, reinstall the pump fuse and start engine, if all is good shut off engine and reinstall engine cover and fuel rail port cap

Now i flooded mine and it was hard to restart i ended cranking with footnon gas pedal some , id imagine letting it sit for a few hours will probably work also

 

Added to tech section

I bought this tool over the cheaper one because the fittings aare almost all brass vs all plastic or aluminum on the cheaper one plus this has an incoming and outgoing gauge to monitor pressure, seems to be a nice kit for the money comes with no directions and prts list is in chineese lol

 

I was told that it's a good idea to change your plugs and oil AFTER doing the BG44 treatment. Probably not something you want to hear since you just did yours. In my case, I bought the product and did the air induction and fuel tank BG treatments but deferred the fuel rail one until next time I do plugs. It's sitting in my tool shed until then.

 

Nice to I know, probly say change plugs cause you can flood the engine and foul them, mine were new few months back and probly due for oil change soon so im sure im ok

 

To add, only 05' years have the schrader valve on the fuel rail. 06' and after you need to have an attachment at the fuel line spring fitting.

 

Thanks for the heads up.

Is this the item (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Fuel-In...469baa27146ce9)

If not, please send the link for the one you purchased.

 

Looks like everyone basically sells the same kit, dont remember where mine came from but i see as cheap as $60 on amazon

Search non dismantle fuel injection cleaner

 

So you were able to do it through the schrader valve on the fuel rail?

I have an '05 LR3 that has the schrader valve so I attempted to use that for my first cleaning yesterday with the OTC tool I just picked up but I was not successful. When I pressurized the canister I could see the hose from the canister to the fuel rail expand from the pressure but the engine would never start. Not even a hiccup. I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump. I did not clamp a hose like you mentioned you did. What is the reason for that? If you keep the pressure lower than the normal fuel rail pressure the fuel pressure regulator should prevent the cleaner from bleeding out. Shouldn't it? The only thing I could think of was that the schrader valve was not allowing enough flow. Did you actually remove the schrader valve itself like you do when filling a tire to set its bead on the rim or did you leave it in?

And I don't have the same setup you have. I have a fuel pressure tester from HF that had the correct hose for my test fitting and so I used that with the OTC hose but had to swap out one of the quick connect fittings on the hose so it would match up with the HF fitting.

I was really looking forward to seeing the results. My next step was going to be hooking in where the fuel supply comes in...


TIA for any ideas!

 

Out of curiosity, did this make any difference to your extended cranking issue or the fuel mileage?

 

I know this thread is a bit older, but I would love to hear what sort of difference you experienced with cold starting, rough idle and mileage after you completing this maintenance. Could you provide an update please?