Wanted to take the ECM out to check for corroded wires as it's clear there's been some water intrusion in the area. Pulled the battery and TCM ECU and was staring down the main ECM. Pried up the lever and attempted to swing it out and it started, but seemed to stop and wouldn't budge after maybe 1/3". I didn't want to force it and only had a short afternoon window to get it done before temps drop below freezing again, and I really don't want to fight a broken connector and cripple the truck if I were to break it. I put it all back and took the "L."

So nutshell: is there a trick to this? Seems no different than a normal sliding connector but I can only see the side facing me and couldn't see another mechanism to free it.

 

Just been there. Thought the same thing. Put some lube on the hinge of the "swing arm" connector and some heat gun air (NOT TORCH type heat) and it did come loose. I did pry from the bottom as I kept putting pressure on the "swing arm"

At least I didn't break anything. I'm not a professional and am not responsible for any advice

 

What you are going to have the most fun with is the bottom right hand 5.5mm bolt, and Oh, I remember that I didn't put pressure on the center of the latch release, I kept pressure on the sides of the lever

 

thanks for the input. I removed all of the bolts (I used 7/32 which seemed to work) before attempting to remove the levered latches, maybe that didn't help me. I used a 1/4 ratchet on maybe a 3-4" extension and didn't really struggle too much. But I did do it in <40 degree temps, so maybe that was part of the issue with the levered connector. If I attempt it again in the cold, I'll get out the heat gun and warm it up and drizzle some butter on it. I pulled the lever until the "gear" tooth clearly jumped, then kinda sorta got it back and I moved it back and forth for the travel I had but it never gained me any more. I cleaned out half a dozen other connectors with QD cleaner but none were corroded so I doubt this is my issue.