The rubber button section of one of our LR3 keys was deteriorating. I ordered a new shell with logo on ebay from electricbestbuy item number 321174795165. The key fob shell arrived, looked oem or better. Pulling my old fob apart was a more of a chore than I anticipated. Be very careful that you do not run a screwdriver into or through the circuit board, it is easy to do. Once opened, I swapped the circuit board and key blade and glued the new case together and it was good to go. I clamped it overnight to allow the glue to set. So far, so good. I ended up buying a second key shell today so I will be ready when the next one needs to be sorted. I did note that many of the logoed key shells have been removed from ebay and that they are now selling non-logoed key shells. Rover's Trademark team must be working overtime. I noticed that several indy shops here in San Diego have had to drop "Rover" from their shop names due to threats of litigation from Land Rover. All the best.

 

I just got through doing the exact same thing with a battery change included. If it was just shell replacement, it would be a breeze. Well, not quite a breeze... I could not, for the life of me, get the old key fob to open. I tried everything... prying with a screwdriver, running a knife around the seam, even popping it in the toaster oven to warm it up. The "glue" would not give. So, in the end I took a hack saw to it and just took my time being very careful not to go too deep. I got my case off eBay as well (and also from China). Was worried about whether it would have the same feel to it, and I have to say I'm pleasantly surprised. I would certainly buy another from the same seller, though I think mine was closer to $20. I'm still trying to figure out what to use to glue the case back together though. Did you just use superglue? I was thinking contact cement might be a little more forgiving if I ever drop the fob since it retains some flexibility.

 

I used super glue and then clamped it overnight. So far so good. If it comes loose, I may use something with a bit more kick in it. There isn't much mating surface in these shells. Phil

 

Let me reiterate, be careful when prying the shell apart in order to remove the circuit board and key blade. My wife took our "newly shelled" key out this morning. The truck locked and unlocked but would not start. Evidently, I was not as careful as I should have been. I nicked one of the circuits mounted to the board, I thought all was fine, but evidently, not. I will take a look tonight, but it may require a new circuit board and programming from Great Britain.....dang You have now been warned.

 

As I mentioned, I damaged the circuit on key circuit board while trying to pry the old shell apart. Any fixes for it? I checked with the dealer, they will only sell a new key, no parts and they don't fix them. Does anyone know of a source to fix the keys or to solder on a new circuit? I assume it would need to be reflashed with the appropriate software. I ordered a back up key today, $295 for the key, including tax, another $75 to program. By the way, the new shell on the old key looks great. thanks in advance. Phil

 

Do you know what you did to the old circuit board? I mean, it all honesty, since those PCBs are all manufactured by computer, then can be insanely small and the components on them can probably never be resoldered by human hand. BUT, you never know... if there is actual physical damage, somebody might be able to help if you post a pic of it.

Concerning the new key... I don't know if you own an IID tool, but you can now program new keys with their latest firmware release, so you could save yourself $75 there (if you own one already).

 

I will try to post a photo when I get home tonight. The new shell/case looks great, too bad about the tech that screwed up the circuit board......a $350 mistake. Just don't tell my kids what I did, I will never live it down. Phil

 

To get the shell apart I used a set of snap ring pliers. When the blade is out put the pliers in the hole and crack it open.