Hello all
I have had my LR3 for 7 months now and love it.
It is pretty much stock other then the previous owner put larger tires and I believe ~2 inch Johnson rods on it .

From the get go it had a secondary O2 sensor code and since it was the secondary one I have not rushed to change it (I have the part)
Also , Once in a while and usually on the highway a suspension error would come up and I would get the "lowering and no special programs" message.
This does not effect it's drive-ability and it was rare so it also got put on the "ignore for now list"
I also noticed that if left sitting for a day or two the front suspension would slowly lower on the right side a lot and maybe the left side a bit..
About 1 month ago I was getting an intermittent fault and it usually came up when depressing the brake, I changed the brake switch and that seemed solve this problem.
I have also just changed the battery with a new 900 CCA (even though the cheap tester I purchased on Amazon said it was good)

Why the post
Well lately (both before and after the battery change) I am getting a hole bunch of codes (see attached iLAND report , I purchased the software) Suspension program. Transmission faults...etc Now it still drives normal.. just no special programs .. I would like the special programs back and the ability to select the height I want ( access,normal,high)

Also on the the "to do list" and since I just started a few week holidays I am about to do rear bushings,"they squeak" the above mentioned O2 sensor
I also have the parts to replace the speed sensors and the Ride Level sensors, OH and I have set of rear light bulbs (yes the proper ones)

From what I an reading on these threads/Posts, it seems like I may have wiring issue. What do you think? If that is true where do I start looking first based on the attached errors?

I am pretty handy mechanically, but I don't now a lot about these various LR systems. So help diagnosing would be appreciated.

Thank you
Scott

 

Firstly, as you put in a new battery, I would do a hard reset, that is, disconnect battery, use a screwdriver and bridge the positive and negative cables together for a couple of minutes (keep clear of shorting battery). This will clear most codes. Reconnect battery and start vehicle and see what codes appear. This may give you a better picture of what is wrong.

 

Hello Globetrotter448

Thanks for the response. I reset / erased all of the OLD codes several times both before and after the battery swap using to scanning/diagnostic tool, Do you think the battery method does something more/better then using the the scanner?




Scott

 

Most certainly, it clears codes that some tools cannot.