Quick update, 32010X in National box was '''National" brand, 32010X Timken that showed up has no radius on the inner shoulder so it will not sit, didn't even try.
I got an ace up my sleeve, a very resourceful bearing place that supposed to be calling me back, they tried to reach me while I was on the road during the week and I asked to call back Monday (tomorrow)
For the other side I got 603011/049 combo and SET37, same bearings in both, one is MADE IN USA another MDA IN USA FROM US AND IMPORTED COMPONENTS, I might just use all the iffy ones to build the rusty diff and try it out while waiting for the better bearing to build a spare that has perfect gears

 

You def need the prefix of XAB32010X. No way around it for the passenger side. Drive side needs the same radius of course, so double check that. If you go Timken LM603049, it will have the radius as I had no issue at all with that one. But for those brands, I would hope they are the same. To me the driver side is the most critical if you don't want to mess with shims. Passenger side can be adjusted without affecting the pinion to ring gear interface. I would look at your old bit and see how they measure up to those.


I did get the job done today. I will never do this project again without a lift, transmission stand and a second person. Period. This was one of the most hellish projects I have ever done. Overall the one unexpected hang up was that passenger side CV at the axle. But then there was the diff itself. I guess removal is not the worst one you know to remove the extension tube cause it will just Plinko® its way down to the ground. But install, which I thought would go pretty easy, was also a total pain. I did swap front driveshaft which was apparently a good idea, it was failing. I would say though that *maybe* disconnecting it from the transfer case may give you that needed extra half inch of room. But I can not say, it is so tight under there.

Side note: For anyone swapping the front drive shaft during diff swap, you need to drop the sway bar. Both sides, remove the four nuts. Let it fall and the shaft will come right out. You just need that extra little bit of room. I really wanna meet the engineering team on this truck and slap em all in the face.....

 

What I left out is that National brand has a required radius but I don't trust the bearing itself, was hoping to find a repackaged Timken.
Luckily I have a lift and LR tech who might be able to give me a hand.

 

Oh, is that the one that Rock had Timken pics under the National listing? National is a good brand, same for NTN. I would have no issue using it if it fits the needed specs. I was just paranoid cause I did not want to deal with shims.....

Lucky you! I have access to a lift and regret not using it. Even solo it would have been a lot easier on me getting this thing in and out. But I wanted to get it done over the weekend. The company I work for is what has a lift, never get used cause it was for the owner's son and his hobbies. And access to it on the weekend is a big ask cause there is a lot of other stuff in the same building.

 

Oh... install note that helped me get the dang thing installed. Cause of the frame component that is in the way and the diff needing to be above it for install, what finally worked was to get the diff front end (the bushing end) above its mount location and forward. Basically overshooting the front end. This game some room for it to go forward toward the steering rack and get the drive shaft lined up to couple. Then slide is down and back into place while installing at least one of the three large side bolts. Then finally getting the front bushing bolt installed. Just be careful of the rack lines that are right there. With a lift and a second person I think you will not have issues tho.

 

tempted to try summit, they are reputable and specifically call if for a diff application, $53
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-32010x
also 123bearing has correct XAB23010X/Y32010X for $92

 

That one from Summit, well the pics are wrong but that part number will not work. You really need that prefix of XAB. I would try a local industry supply, just make sure they know about the prefix to get the right radii on the inside. I think 123bearings is way too expensive.

 

Old diff carnage pics. When I first opened it I was shocked that the black coating did not come off. It was just the poor light inside my garage..... With some light it became obvious quickly that it had come off in chunks. The passenger side bearing was very worn but looked decent including the outer race. The driver side bearing and race though.... pretty bad. And no rust inside that I could see. I am confident this was all caused by the material coming off. Again to recap, this is a 2006 LR3 with 235k miles which started to experience a vibration at speed some time ago but last fall and this spring it was working enough that I swapped CVs only to finally find that at the diff body I could move a CV at the output way too much (video in another thread).


Upon first view, I thought the coating was still in place.



Crunchy!

More crunchy!

Driver bearing had more than a few examples of this. And if not pitted you can see how very rough they are.

Driver side race is very worn and very uneven in that wear.

Passenger side bearing is worn but not damaged.

Original to my 2006 LR3.