2006 LR3

This is a thread to maybe help others that run into this issue. My truck sat for a week while I worked out of town, got back and it would not fire. Cranked perfectly, even with my aux battery AND jumped by another LR3 it still would not fire. Pulled a plug, it was dry and when tested for spark it was firing. Tested cam sensors, both at 2.04 ohm (wow those are hidden!). Not getting fuel though, thats clearly the issue. Try to jump pump at relay, nothing. Dropped the tank, which is NOT fun, especially when adding fuel to make sure it was not a low fuel issue.

Thread on tank dropping:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...as-tank-74812/

So tank is down, new pump in hand. I do test the connector, its reading 1 volt lower than battery. Odd and given my experience a red flag but also the key is in II and my battery is a low so I also figure its just voltage drop. Get new pump installed and before putting tank up I test it. Nothing, so fuel shooting out the disconnected output line. Okay... something is not right. I expose some copper on the power and ground to the pump about two inches up the harness at the tank plug. To be sure the tank "hat" interact thing is not defective. When I run a positive lead from the battery to the positive at the harness, pump fires. After poking around its clear that the ground is fine but the positive wire somewhere is damaged/open.

Day two I get under and start pulling wires out of the outer cover. But I notice a very faint green residue at one cover. I pull it open and basically the wire is worn through and corroded badly. Bingo! But the cause is clear, the corner of the metal bracket welded to the frame has worked its way into the harness and damaged the positive lead. For me this was the only wire damaged but it could have easily been others for the sending units. So if you have a bad sending unit and replacement does not work, keep this thread in mind. I spice in a new section fo wire and all is well. Put the tank back up and the truck is running.

Oddly you would think this level of contact would have at some point cause a fuse to go. The location of this issue is just forward the rear wheel on the passenger side. The photo below showing the area is taken form where the tank would be. Its on top the main frame rail and might be accessible from the rear wheel well or such. Since I had the tank out I just worked on it as you see.

Note: If you are dropping the tank I highly recommend new nuts & bolts. I purchased mine from Amazon. Coat the bolts with anti seize when installing.

8x washer = M10x30mm 1.5 or 2mm thick recommended (8 washers are needed with the six bolts because the two forward bolts use two washers. Why? I have no clue but that is spec)

6x bolts = M10x25 flanged



3x captive nut = M10 (also called j-nut, u-nut) (These are used for the three middle nuts. Front and rear bolts do not use these)

 

Thanks for this post, I think my fuel pump just failed. Question, is dropping the tank required? Is there no access from in the cabin? I've done it before but as you say, it's not fun.

 

Yup, gotta drop it. Can be done in off road height and a jack to support the tank. I have done this so many times now that it is really not what I call a hard job anymore. Unless the tank has a lot of fuel left!

 

Thanks! At least I replaced all the bolts on the tank shield last year so that should be easier and the shield I installed has a flat bottom so my low lift transmission jack should do the trick... I'm sure the connectors will put up a fight though.... sigh... it was really nice to have the truck working again with fresh brakes. The weekend awaits!