roverguy7, thanks for your tremendous help. Following your Clear Flood Procedure, I was able to get it running again. You saved me the expense of having to get it towed and fixed at the service center.

I let it crank while depressing the throttle 5 times, with 90 second cool-down periods in between. And then I cranked it with my foot depressed for 5 seconds and then I let off while it continued to crank. I did that 3 times and finally I saw the RPM gauge go to 200 RPM. So, like you instructed, I feathered the gas and it finally shot up to 1500 RPM!

I took it for a drive on the highway and past 30 MPH, it has absolutely zero pick-up. I feel like it's a 4-cylinder engine! I guess maybe I just need to drive it for 20-30 miles and it should sort itself out hopefully.

 

Also, to note, I did not end up swapping the plugs out with the old ones.

 

Savannah Buzz, I was going to do a write-up as I took pictures documenting each step. However, since I accidentally shot too much PSI through the fuel rail (little more than 100 PSI), it flooded out the engine. My performance is greatly diminished now. So, I'm going to wait about a month and buy a new can of cleaner and do it all over again. I'll definitely create a thread/tutorial when I do it again properly. I'll also include a big warning of what NOT to do, so people can learn from my mistake.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm not sure how you had it set up, but realistically the only thing you would have damaged with too much pressure would be the regulator in the pump, if you had it hooked inline with the fuel system. Drive it, do some WOT runs, let it cool, do it again. I think you may just still have some plugs flooded.
The fuel system runs near 70 psi on it's own, your injectors should be fine with a little bit more, not talking from experience, just assumption.

 

Here's a picture of how I had it hooked up:



I had the fuel pump fuse disconnected. And I hooked up the fuel injection cleaner system to the fuel rail hose.

 

ok. For future reference, and anyone else that does this, they sell adapters to hook it up to the rail without cutting the line. Are you sure you don't have a restriction in the line?, too tight a bend, inline coupler not allowing full flow?
When i do it, I have a set up that allows the fuel line to still be hooked up, and cut off flow with a valve, run the vehicle until hot, switch the valves from gas to cleaner, and when the cleaner starts to run out, switch back. It keeps it from flooding and stalling, and makes my life much easier. But I also do this for a living, and have a substantial investment in my tooling. The way you did it is ok, but makes it easier for it to flood, and fuel lines should not be removed when the vehicle is hot, but the chemicals work much better once the engine is at operating temperature.

 

I saw the adapter kit. But, being that I paid $130 for the OTC 7448 system, $20 shipped for the cleaner, along with another $15 for the brass fittings, the expense of the adapter kit would have doubled my cost. I couldn't justify the expense for it at the time.

However, having said that, my power is fully back now... a few WOT runs cleared everything up. And I'm happy to report the fuel injection cleaning worked well. The LR3 was powerful to begin with. But, now it's really got some power. I without a doubt feel the difference.

So, I will be purchasing the adapter kit, as I'll be doing this to my other vehicles also.

I tried pulling off the rubber fuel hose manually with a ton of force. But, it was baked onto the metal fuel feed line running to the left of the engine. I had to take a pair of electrical scissors to cut it off. But, I still had to take a flathead screwdriver to really pry pieces of rubber stuck onto it. It was like it was melted to the metal fuel line. I'm going to order a new rubber fuel hose this week and replace it though, as in total I cut 2 inches off of its length.

 

Good to hear. And yeah, the set up gets pricey when everything is factored in. For your other cars, I suggest hooking it up, and running it through with just gas in the canister once, let everything get nice and hot, the carbon will come off easier, and allow the chemical to work even better.