ok to start i know there are countless threads on this topic so please bare with me, yes i have done a search before posting i just cant seem to find a situation like mine

so i bought my LR3 about 6 months ago and it had a "suspension fault normal height only" everything i read had said the dryer was bad. i didn't worry to fix it because it would raise and lower just fine and the fault didn't come up for about a minute or so.

about 3 months ago i started to notice the nose of the truck lowering every night. ( bad front valve block) i didn't worry to replace because it was fine during the day.

fast forward to a week ago and i get sick and didn't drive the truck for about 3 days. walked out and cranked her up and the "suspension fault " came up quicker than normal and wouldn't rise. a few quick shut offs and it popped up " suspension will raise once cooled" or something like that. finally after letting it sit for a couple hours trying it and then repeating the process all day i finally got it up.

went out of town for a few days and now she wont go up at all. suspension fault almost immediately after cranking. but now it doesn't even say normal height only. Just Suspension fault.

felt the compressor motor and it was very hot.

went ahead and bought a new compressor and relay and front valve block. changed them all and the fault still shows up. the compressor will run for about 10 seconds and then the fault comes up and it cuts off

also i have Johnson rods, not sure if that changes anything.......

PLEASE HELP

 

When you replaced the compressor and block, was the car on stands? When you try it now, is it still slammed on the ground?

The reason I ask is because sometimes with the rods, if you let the car droop down to the bumpstops, the sensors will go out of their range and thus cannot detect where they are or provide numbers to the computer. To be "safe" it will not run the system and register a fault.

Try lifting the vehicle up with jacks or two so the suspension geometry is roughly lined up normally then try using the suspension controls.

 

ive read that on other threads and tried both ways, on jacks and off of them....

was just told by someone else it could be the air suspension height control unit, anyone have any thought on that??

really wish i could afford to go with springs all together at this point

 

I've never heard of this "air suspension height control unit." Also, your problem is likely simple, don't go getting all tilted and ripping out the EAS. It's a great piece of Engineering even if it's a pain in the *** once in a while. If you plan on going off-road, you'll appreciate the EAS in the long run.

Two things came to mind:

1. Did you do a software update when you put in the new compressor? I believe one is needed, especially when you go from Hitachi to AMK.

2. Did you re-calibrate the sensors after the compressor install?

I would take the rods off and then do both of those things. Then again, if you have an IIDTool or any other device that would allow you to do items 1 and 2 above, you probably don't need the Johnson rods in the first place, so you can just leave them off thereafter.

 

So... did you replace the front valve block or determine where the system is leaking air from (if anywhere)? If you have a leak, your compressor has to work more than usual and it gets and stay hotter than usual, so it will burn out faster. If/when that happens, if you just replace the compressor without addressing the leak (unless the leak was at the compressor), you're just going to experience the same issues.

I certainly wouldn't touch any ECU components unless it's an absolute last resort because that's probably the most reliable piece of the entire system. You need to clear your codes, spray strategic areas with some soapy water and then fire the car up and see if you can get the compressor to pump any air into the system. If so, see where the bubbles form. If the compressor won't fire up at all, look into the fuse and relay - if you replaced the compressor, hopefully you replaced the relay as well because the AMK compressor requires an entirely new relay from what the Hitachi had.

 

X2 on the EAS module. Last thing you should be looking at changing. You cant swap a used one in either, has to be new virgin module from dealer then synced to your VIN.

get the codes pulled before any more guess work.