Finally an issue.... Odd one that seems others have had here and there but I have no found a solution yet, most just swapped cases. About three or so seconds after turning off my 2006 there is a loud clunk. I had exhaust work done and this happened around that time, but certainly unrelated. So I thought at first it was the new pipe contracting or something weird when the engine stopped running. But its been a month or so and I started to notice how consistent it was and wold even happen with a cool engine (moving it in the driveway just a bit). So finally went under and sure thing, transfer case. I did have a small leak and fluid was down a little. It was clean so I topped it off.

It changes from high to low without issue. I have been trail riding with no issues too. Never any dash messages.

I did calibrate the position sensor and clutches. No issues in doing so. No codes, but I will preface this with noting I did not check before I calibrated it and since I forget to put it into neutral, I did get two when I went back and checked:
P0806-00 Clutch position sensor - circuit range/performance
P181D-00 Clutch Actuator Changerover Solenoid - range/performance

So I cleared those and did the calibration successfully a second time to be sure. Again, no issues and I think those may have been the result of calibrating in park, not neutral. Been a couple days now with fluid topped off and supposedly good calibrations, but no messages and no codes. Just the loud clunk. I do have a new spare aftermarket actuator motor on hand. I do not have a solenoid. It was mentioned in one thread in another forum that this is cause by pressure still being on the clutches when turning off the truck - which is when the solenoid is denergized. But there was no explanation beyond that and no follow up. Which again is how most of the threads I found went. I will keep digging, but if you have experience with this I would love to know. Ona side note, I happen to have a spare transfer case from a Range Rover that I picked up for $45, low miles and in good shape. I planned to swap anyway because of the leak and would have by now if they were not such a pain to do. The good news is I have access to a lift now. But if I can fix this without swapping for now, that would be nice.

 

I had this previously happen, however it was resolved with the calibration procedures. I did a fluid change at the same time, so that may or may not have mattered. I did have to run the calibration sequences twice because the clunk happened another time after I drove 50 miles following the first calibration.

 

No number of additional calibrations are helping. Still works fine with no fault codes.

 

I’m having the same issue at the moment, if anyone found the solution. My 2005 LR3 Is also having issues getting out of locking diff. At least I think that’s what’s happening. During tight turns she has trouble like the rear diff is locked. I experience the loud clunk from the transfer case a few seconds after shutting off the truck as well. When in Lo Range, and switching into different modes to lock the diff, it’s intermittent in successfully switching in and out of locking diff. The front diff seems to be fine and switches as expected. Rear diff is intermittent.

would you all suggest that changing diff/t case fluid and doing the calibration will help? This all started happening after I went in some deep water on a trail ride. Water was a few feet deep, likely that the diff and t case were submerged for about 30 seconds.

 

No resolution yet. Have not touched it though. Did numerous calibrations but it works fine. I also notice it clicking lightly when starting the truck but I think it always did that. Since I have a spare case, I may swap the solenoid and see what happens.

As for your specific issues, the rear diff would be a separate issue. Supposed you have no codes. There is no front diff. Just rear and center, center being the transfer case. The rear diff clunk is often a sign of having the old software and the clutch motor starting to bind up. Software update should be done and if issues persist, replace the rear diff actuator motor. There is a TSB coving the issue and several forums threads on it.

 

So update on this. I have done nothing besides dread the eventual replacement of the transfer case. Glad I have access to a lift, which can help a little I suppose. BUT.... it stopped doing it. Not actually certain as to when tho, it had not been too long. Maybe a couple weeks. I just wish I would have noticed exactly when because two weeks ago I did go off-roading in Upper Michigan. I am not 100% sure if I ever went into low range because I was paranoid about it getting suck in low. But I think I did on the day I headed home when I took a technical trail. So I never had codes, Nav display showed it "locking" as normal when needed, etc. Just the weird loud clank stopped at some point on its own.

I did have a thought that maybe it was the actuator motor or gear. I have heard the gears, which are plastic, can break. There is a metal one available. But I never looked into it. Like I said, I still plan to replace the case and then I will probably dig into the one removed and see if I can find anything. I will update if the sound comes back.

 

Another update. The weird nouns came back for a while, at least a few weeks now. This time I started to get codes, P181D-00 (2F) Clutch actuator changeover solenoid - range/performance . I even had an incident where I could not get out of low. This was after a little test I did in my driveway after having the transfer case bind up a couple times after starting. Basically it was stuck in low, but not really low? It was weird but made turning very difficult. And after clearing the code it would eventually come back. Since we had some decent weather, I decided to swap in a used one from my spare transfer case that eventually needs to be installed. I will order a new solenoid, they are only about $150 but I am glad I did not get a new one for this....

It would appear that the solenoid was indeed the issue, but it was my fault. I have not heard the clunk yet but I have not really had it out on the road. But I can say the changes from low to high sound better and even seem faster. The actuation is a little more "crisp" if that make sense. What caused my issue was the leak stop, BlueDevil, that I used. There is a small green o-ring on the boot of the solenoid. This does not insert into anything, it just acts as a small mechanical force on the center of the boot/diaphragm which is a seal between the solenoid itself and the transfer case fluid inside. There is no pressure in the case even though there is a pump, so any fluid that would have gotten in was from just being exposed. I am certain the fluid worked a little down into the shaft and got into the solenoid itself. So I think that somehow cause the issues.

Removing one is easy, you can do it by pulling a little and tilting the stamped end towards the front and the inner part towards the rear to get it off the print inside. Fluid will come out! I forgot that part, was not ready and made a mess.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...g-86760/page2/

Install was a bit of a pain. I highly recommend getting a pigtail and wiring up a 12v supply. I have not looked up if this thing really works on 12v, it may be less - so you have been warned. But I had to make a tiny harness and hook up my battery to get the solenoid to energize and install. There is no other way, with it retracted it will not reach the fork inside. Even with it energized it was a bit fiddly to get it to set just right. Having the Rover on a lift would have helped a lot. When energized the solenoid got pretty hot which is why I am not 100% sure its a full 12v it uses. If you have a harness setup and tools ready to go this could easily be a 15 minute job.

The first pic is the used replacement, not the green o-ring. The next two show the one I pulled. Note the corrosion issues too. I had to clean up the surface of the transfer case with a brass brush on a Dremel.