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LR3 won't start, multiple codes and no solution. Trans fault Parking break fault, HDC

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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 12:39 AM
  #81  
KMET's Avatar
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Here's another thread about it.... (Since my LR3 just started doing this too....)

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...roblems-37163/
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 01:56 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by mcvayrover
So I tested the battery today (it was at 78%) So that seems to running well.
I also just picked up a new brake light switch and installed that with no luck

I've traced back all I worked and found nothing wrong with any wires.
The only option I can think of is exactly what cmb6s said. So i'm referencing that post and going to try and see if that is the culprit.

Thanks again for really thinking outside of the box! (I did just pressure wash my car that same day).

I'll post what the outcome is as i'll start working on it now.
I have heard a few stories of power washing in places other than the exterior really messing things up. For this reason I keep mine SUPER dirty...

Do check the battery and the wiring involved there. PO on my truck had most if not all of the main heavy wiring replaced around the battery, and it magically solved what I remember him saying was a similar problem to yours...
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 08:39 AM
  #83  
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The only time I've seen one of these fuse boxes 'melt' it was due to battery acid, not heat/current, and even then, it was aesthetic(no damage to connectors or wiring, no structural damage to the case)

However, this was on one that had the fuse box cover in place, so I guess if it was off for some reason, a lot more damage could have occurred.

That said, there are several different things that can cause the flashers and a no start, most having to do with wiring/corrosion/connectors somewhere on the CAN bus, but it can also be a component, IP/HVAC are both somewhat common.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 09:22 AM
  #84  
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I changed the battery and it was clean. Very little corrosion. The fuse box cover was on and it hasn't rained here in some time. Also the 3 is kept in a garage at work and at home.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 01:16 PM
  #85  
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So I went to the shop to talk about the issue and have him show me the melting area. One relay R6 I believe has the connection area melted. They say it can't be serviced and the whole fuse box and harness has to be replaced. I found one on ebay for $199 and another forum member has said he's parting out an LR3 and would sell it for $150. Plus rover land parts has one for sale. He gave me a part number to look up but the part number was for an engine wiring harness and not fuse box so I'm hoping he looked at the wrong tag. A bit peeved at the shop for the communication or lack of but what can I do.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #86  
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The fuse box is integrated into the harness, no connectors to it, just wired directly in. However, you can, carefully, swap pieces of the box over, depending on how damaged yours is you may need to de-pin and re-pin every connection in the box, or you may be able to just swap the top section.

You sure it was #6? I could easily see #7(EAS compressor) causing something like this, but without a short I wouldn't think #6 would have that much current running through it.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 12:48 PM
  #87  
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I have read that the Fuse box is VIN specific, is this true?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 12:52 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by abran
I have read that the Fuse box is VIN specific, is this true?
The interior fuse box, Central Junction Box, also serves as the Body Control Unit, and is specific to the vehicle. The underhood fuse box, Battery Junction Box, however, is not, aside from possible changes based on fitted features or vehicle configuration.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #89  
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^ Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 04:21 PM
  #90  
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I did this....

Than disassembled and cleaned internal contacts with paint thinner & Q tips . Reconnect, start LR, no more errors...

Parking brake was still beeping so I pulled it's fuse and reconnected.

All is fine now...
 

Last edited by KMET; Nov 19, 2015 at 10:00 PM.
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