Need help wth DIY for front valve block
Is there a DIY for the replacement of the front valve block? I am planning on doing mine and any help would be appreciated.
If anyone can even walk me through the process I can take some pictures and post it as a DIY on this forum,
Happy
If anyone can even walk me through the process I can take some pictures and post it as a DIY on this forum,
Happy
Very do-able job. I changed mine last weekend, while referring to cmb6s's post. I really took my time and it was about 1.5hrs total. cmb6s's post pictures and procedures were great. These are a couple of my takeaways:
- To depressurize, I dropped the car to access mode and shut it off. Then I slowly unscrewed the lines (12mm) at the valve block, letting them leak down. This allowed a safe, easy depressurization without using the IID or another tool.
- I did not have to remove the whole inner fender liner. I removed the front right wheel and the screws/clips out of the front of the plastic inner liner. I pulled that back and secured it with a bungee cord around the steering knuckle. That gave me enough space to do the whole job and it was never in the way.
- With a 12mm wrench, remove the brass connectors (Voss) of the plastic air lines. The new valve block comes with new Voss connectors. Don't be lazy; swap the old ones for the new. It's easy to do and reduces risk of a leaking connector. DO NOT CROSS-THREAD THE CONNECTORS. You're screwing brass into plastic so it's easy to do bad things. My final connector wanted to cross thread so I yelled bad words at it and it eventually shaped up and sealed tight.
- After I started the car and it worked, I sprayed soap/water around the connectors to ensure there were no leaks. It hasn't dropped at all in the last week.
- Wish I had done the job months ago instead of letting it drop each night and putting the additional strain on the old compressor.
- To depressurize, I dropped the car to access mode and shut it off. Then I slowly unscrewed the lines (12mm) at the valve block, letting them leak down. This allowed a safe, easy depressurization without using the IID or another tool.
- I did not have to remove the whole inner fender liner. I removed the front right wheel and the screws/clips out of the front of the plastic inner liner. I pulled that back and secured it with a bungee cord around the steering knuckle. That gave me enough space to do the whole job and it was never in the way.
- With a 12mm wrench, remove the brass connectors (Voss) of the plastic air lines. The new valve block comes with new Voss connectors. Don't be lazy; swap the old ones for the new. It's easy to do and reduces risk of a leaking connector. DO NOT CROSS-THREAD THE CONNECTORS. You're screwing brass into plastic so it's easy to do bad things. My final connector wanted to cross thread so I yelled bad words at it and it eventually shaped up and sealed tight.
- After I started the car and it worked, I sprayed soap/water around the connectors to ensure there were no leaks. It hasn't dropped at all in the last week.
- Wish I had done the job months ago instead of letting it drop each night and putting the additional strain on the old compressor.
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